Valley of the Fallen photo by G. Wilson

Valley of the Fallen photo by G. Wilson

The panels of the Cathedral's Bronze Doors depict the 12 Apostles. photo by G. Wilson

Begun in the early 1940's and completed in 1959, the Valley of the Fallen is an underground church and tomb topped with a 500 foot stone cross, which can be seen from a distance of 30 miles. Although supposedly honouring all who died in the Spanish Civil war, only two names are commemorated within the cathedral: General Francisco Franco and José Antonio Primo de Rivera, founder of the ultra right Falangist party. Jose died before the mausoleum was started. Critics of this gargantuan memorial, see it not as a post-civil war object of reconciliation, but as "Fascist theatricality." It does not help its cause that it was constructed by 20,000 Republican prisoners, many of whom lost their lives quarrying the huge cavern out of the rock.

The cathedral, carved out of the side of a mountain, has a central chamber larger than St. Peter's Basillica. Its centrepiece is Franco's granite tomb, which is regularly covered by flowers brought by Spaniards paying hommage to his memory. The mammoth structure pays tribute to Franco and his regime, but the present Socialist government of José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero plans to convert the Valley of the Fallen into a centre to explain the "meaning of the (Franco) dictatorship and its horrors". However, the prime minister may encounter some opposition to his plan from Spain's sovereign, King Juan Carlos I, for when Juan was a young prince, he was apparently like a son to Franco, and the King's fond memory of the man is such that he will not countenance criticism of him in his presence.

Times change as do attitudes and it appears that reconciliation rather than the resting place of the former dictator Franco will eventually mark the mausoleum's main function.
National Post 12 October, 2011

DIGGING UP THE PAST
"Spain is considering exhuming the remains of General Francisco Franco from the mausoleum erected with the forced labour of political prisoners, to convert the site into a mausoleum of reconciliation. The dictator's corpse could be tranferred from the Valley of the Fallen to the El Pardo cemetery in Madrid and buried next to his wife, Carmen Polo. The proposal was made by a commision deciding the fate of a memorial that, 36 years after Franco's death, still casts a shadow over Spain. The Periodico de Catalunya newspaper published the leaked preliminary proposals, which said the commission hoped to win the support of Franco's family."

Massive Square constructed in front of the Cathedra. photo by G. Wilson

Tomb of Franco photo by G. Wilson

The reconciliation is thought by some to be asymmetrical. The emphasis sppears to be on overlooking fascist crimes against humanity perpetrated by the fascists over a lengthy period of time, in order to ensure a peaceful transition of power from the hard-line dictators to the democratically elected government.

After various local groups began to look into the dark secrets of Spain's past by uncovering mass graves, the government passed the Historical Memory Law, banning fascist memorials, giving compensation to General Franco's victims and requiring all towns to exhume, record and rebury the bodies found in mass graves. One person leading this investigation, presented a Madrid judge with a list of 133,708 names of people who disappeared and were suspected of having been murdered by the Franco regime. The judge ordered the excavation of the burial site, so that DNA tests could reveal the names of those killed. While the judge had the support of the left-wing government, his order disturbed a great many people, who believed implementation of his order would destroy national unity. Other judges of the same court subsequently directed the judge to drop his inquiry. The reasons: he had no jurisdiction to make such an order regarding crimes committed seventy years ago by people who are now dead and criminal actions committed during this period were covered by the amnesty passed in 1977. It appears this ends what promised to be the first criminal investigation into the wrongs committed by the Franco's regime.

The impressive palace and statute of Phillip III [April 14, 1578 - March 31, 1621] Pious but passive, he lacked his father's intelligence and capacity for work. photo by B. Wilson

Roman Bridge in Toledo built in 106 AD and dedicated to Emperor Trajan photo by G. Wilson

Alcazar (Castle) of Toledo The Tagus River shown flows across Spain into Portugal from where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean. photo by G. Wilson

Alcazar castle in Segovia, Spain, was first mentioned in records dating back to 1122 as a hill-fort set atop a rocky outcrop between the rivers Bergsma and Clamores. By 1155 this hill-fort became known as "Alcazar", which in Arabic meant royal residence.

Bull farm where five-year-olds are readied for the ring and then the roaster. photo by G. Wilson

Ferdinand and Isabella resumed the Reconquest, dormant for more than 200 years and in 1492 they defeated the Moors and captured Granada. Six hundred Christian prisoners in chains, "thin and yellow from hunger" were released from the dungeons, where they had been imprisoned for an extended period. The chains in which Christian prisoners were bound were hung from the walls of the church. This was ordered by Isabella and Ferdinand to symbolize that never again would Moors control Spain.

Chains and the Church of St. John of the Kings photo by G. Wilson

Synagogue of St. Mary the White photo by G. Wilson

La Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca (St. Mary of the White Synagogue) Once the main 12th-century synagogue in Toledo, La Sinagoga de Santa María la Blanca obtained its present title after its conversion to a church. The building is structurallly similar to a mosque, by virtue of the fact that Muslim craftsmen constructed it. The synagogue has had many uses that include being a convent for 'fallen' women, a Catholic chapel and an army barracks.

Burgos Cathedral Work began on it in 1221 and ran on for three more centuries. photo by G. Wilson

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Burgos Cathedral Constable of Castille - 16th Century. photo by B. Wilson

El Cid

Rodrigo Díaz de Vivar is better known to history as El Cid. the name given him by the Moors, rather than El Campeador (Challenger/Challenger), the name given him by the Christians. "El Cid " comes from a Spanish dialect of Arabic, sidi, meaning "Sir or "Lord." He grew up a caballero or military adventurer, fighting for the cause of Christians or Moors, which ever paid more. Being the national hero of Spain, El Cid displayed remarkable military ability in his conquest of Valencia, which he then governed with ability and justice. The great popular hero of the chivalrous age died at Valencia in 1099. Following his death, Jimena, his wife, continued his rule for three years. El Cid became the subject of many legends, stories, and poems, including the 12th-century epic El cantar de mío Cid (The Song of the Cid) and the movie, El Cid, starring Charlton Heston.

El Cid's remains were first buried in the Monastery of San Pedro de Cardena, a few miles from Burgos, but in 1942 he was reinterred beneath this stone in the Burgos Cathedral, along with his wife, Jimena. His bones at Burgos are revered as those of a saint.

Tomb of El Cid and his wife, Jimena His tomb bears the words: "Brave and unconquered, famous in triumphs of war."

Burgos Cathedral The hero of Spain, El Cid c.1040 - 1099, lies buried within with his wife, Jimena photo by G. Wilson

Christopher Columbus Monument, Barcelona photo by G. Wilson

At the foot of Las Ramblas, near the Barcelona harbour, there is a huge monument honouring Christopher Columbus, who returned to Barcelona after his historic trip to North America. Visitors can climb to the top of the monument to enjoy a spectacular view of the beautiful city of Barcelona.

Replica of Columbus's Santa Maria photo by G. Wilson

'The Santa María was the largest of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus in his first voyage across the Atlantic Ocean in 1492. Carrying 40 men, she was a small carrack about 70 feet long and used as the flagship for the expedition. The Santa María was originally named La Gallega ("The Gallician"), probably because she was built in Galicia. It seems the ship was known to her sailors as Marigalante, literally "Dirty Mary." The Santa María had a deck and three masts. She was the slowest of Columbus' vessels but performed well in the Atlantic crossing. Because of incompetence, she ran aground in Haiti on December 25, 1492. Timbers from the ship were later used to build Môle Saint-Nicolas, which was originally called La Navidad (Christmas) because the wreck occurred on Christmas Day. No authentic contemporary likeness of any of the three ships of the Columbus expedition is known to exist. Several replicas of the Santa Maria have been built, all based solely on conjecture.

Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand gave Columbus a grand reception and confirmed his titles of Admiral of the Ocean and Viceroy and Governor of the Indies. Columbus brought back with him six natives of America whom he called Indians because he thought he had landed in India, They were bapitzed in the royal court.

Carrara Marble Font in which Columbus had six Natives from America baptized. photo by G. Wilson

Plaza of the Saints photo by G. Wilson

Monserrat Mountains and Monastery photo by G. Wilson

Shrine of Our Lady of Montserrat. photo by G. Wilson

Since the 12th century, pilgrims have been drawn to the mountain to venerate the miraculous statue of the Black Madonna (La Moreneta). In 1996, 2.6 million visitors, one of whom was the Pope, visit Monserrat to see the Black Madonna. Barcelona Montserrat is a spectacularly beautiful Benedictine monk mountain retreat about one hour North West from Barcelona by train.

Cathedral of Santa Eulalia photo by B. Wilson

Police Geece photo by G. Wilson

The Cathedral of Santa Eulalia (also called La Seu) is the seat of the Archbishop of Barcelona, Spain. Constructed throughout the 13th to 15th centuries on top of a former Visigothic church, its neo-Gothic façade is from the 19th century. The cathedral is dedicated to Eulalia of Barcelona, co-patron saint of Barcelona, a young virgin who, according to Catholic tradition, suffered martyrdom during Roman times in Barcelona. One story is that she was exposed naked in the public square and a miraculous snowfall in mid-spring covered her nudity. The enraged Romans put her into a barrel with knives stuck into it and rolled it down a street. The body of Saint Eulalia is entombed in the cathedral's crypt. The cathedral has a secluded Gothic cloister where thirteen white geese are kept (it is said that Eulalia was 13 when she was murdered). The cathedral was built throughout the 14th and 15th centuries. We were informed by our guide, that the geece also served as an alarm system with their raucous, squawking when anyone entered.

Sequovia Roman Aqueduct, 2400 feet long and 92 feet high It is still in use. photo by G. Wilson

Bay of Biscay Taken from Mountain in San Sebastian just prior to our departure for France. photo by G. Wilson

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