Paris overwhelms and intimidates first-time tourists with its size and frenzied pace. Within a short period to time, however, one is pleasantly surprised to discover that it is relatively easy to get around in this beautiful city.

Eiffel Tower from Montmontre photo by G.Wilson

The Metro or subway is quiet, fast and efficient and finding one's bearings is simplified by the landmark monuments within easy walking distance from each other.

Egyptian Obelisk photo by G. Wilson

The oldest of these is an obelisk from Luxor, Egypt, the gift of an Arab viceroy in gratitude to Napoleon for his victory over one of Egypt's enemies. The French are quick to indicate that unlike looted obelisks in other countries, theirs was not stolen. The four-sided shaft which bears hieroglyphics glorifying Rameses II is located near an impressive fountain in the centre of the Place de la Concorde which is in the centre of the city.

The Place de Concorde is considered the finest in France. This open, airy square once resounded to the savage cries of leering, cheering mobs who roared their approval as drums and heads rolled. On this very spot 'Madame Guillotine' swished and hundreds of heads were suddenly severed. Their number included the crowned heads of France, Louis XVI and his wife, Marie Antoinette. Originally named Place Louis XV, the square became the Place de la Revolution during the awful upheaval of the French Revolution. Peace brought concord and with it the present name of the square.

Place de Concorde photo by G. Wilson

From the Place de Concorde around which whirls an endless flow of traffic, much of Paris can be seen. Splendid vistas are visible in every direction but one in particular catches and holds the eye. Stretching away to the west is the imposing Champs Elysees, the broad, tree-lined boulevard that extends a little over a mile straight to the Arc de Triomphe.

Looking West down the Champs to the Arc Triomphe photo by G.Wilson

Horses are frequently featured in sculptures around this city and the two famous, rearing stallions known as the Marly Horses flank the entrance to the Champs Elysees. This historic avenue down which has marched so much history is bordered by tall elms and leafy chestnut trees, Offices, chic fashion shops, showrooms and cinemas extend along each side of the busy street. The French have a love affair with food and pastry shops and restaurants abound here and throughout the city. Some are elegant and expensive. Others like pizza parlours and fast-food joints including the omnipresent McDonald's are ordinary and expensive.

Champs Elysees photo by G. Wilson

Open air terraces and roadside cafes are numerous, the clusters of tables crowded with natives and newcomers alike, all sipping and sunning in the warm September afternoon. Prices for the simplest of fare were high, a glass of coke costing five dollars. The place helped make the price worth it - almost.

Sidewalk Cafes photo by G. Wilson

Dinner at Auberge de la Bonne Franquette in Montmontre

No visit to Paris would be complete without an evening out at the fabulous Moulin Rouge.

Moulin Rouge

Dining out at the Moulin Rouge

Nor a sail down the Seine to savour the sights that abound.

Seine River Ride

Arc de Triomphe photo by G.Wilson

At the top of the Champs Elysees is the Place Charles de Gaulle. Formerly called L"Etoile (The Star) it is more like a wheel whose spokes are the 12 avenues that radiate out from the hub on which sits the majestic mass known as the Arc de Triomphe. This colossal 164-foot arc was commissioned by Napoleon to commemorate the glory of the Grande Armee. While he never saw the finished monument, Napoleon was the first national figure to be honoured under its shadow. His coffin passed beneath the arc on its way to his final resting place at Les Invalides.

Surging traffic makes crossing the street suicidal so an underpass has been constructed to permit safe access to the centre of the Arc. For a fee an elevator trip to the top provides a marvelous view of Paris. Below burns the eternal flame which is ceremoniously kindled each evening at 6:30. Nearby attended by soldiers and sailors is the tomb of the Unknown Soldier who was killed during the First World War.

Les Invalides Chapel photo by G. Wilson

Louis XIV initiated the construction of Les Invalides by an order dated November 24, 1670, as a home and hospital for aged and unwell soldiers. It consists of a complex of buildings containing museums and monuments, all relating to the military history of France. It is as well a hospital and a retirement home for war veterans, the building's original purpose. It is also the burial site for some of France's war heroes, the most notable tomb at Les Invalides being that of Napoleon Bonaparte (1769-1821) whose crypt is under its great dome.

Tomb of Napoleon Bonoparte

Notre Dame de Paris [begun in 1163 and completed in 1345] photo by G.Wilson

A roll call of battles and the generals who won them is inscribed on the sides and ceiling of the Arc de Triomphe

Triumphs Recorded on the Arc de Triomphe photo by G.Wilson

Carved on the facades of the Arc are four magnificent patriotic relief sculptures. The most famous is The Departure of the Volunteers in 1792 or La Marseillaise. It depicts the Motherland with wings outstretched exhorting volunteers to fight for France. Beside it is the Triumph of Napoleon in 1810. On the opposite side are The Resistance of 1814 and The Peace of 1815.

La Marseillaise & Triumph of Napoleon photo by G. Wilson

The Resistance of 1814 & The Peace of 1815 photo by G. Wilson

The pavement beneath the Arc is covered with plaques and inscriptions featuring Frenchmen who fought in such places as Indonesia, China, Algiers, and Viet Nam as well as resistance fighters who "Mort pour la France" 'Died for France.' The most prominent plaque contains the speech of Charles de Gaulle broadcast from London on June 18, 1940. In those dark and desperate days De Gaulle appealled to the pride and patriotism of all Frenchmen, his words inspiring hope that France would rise again.

Pride on Plaques photo by G. Wilson

They did and half a century later tourists at the City of Light enthusiastically re-echo the words with which De Gaulle concluded his historic broadcast. "Vive la France."

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