New Zealand

New Zealand has been described as the world's most beautiful country. Its two islands are quite different. The North Island is dominated by Auckland and is like a huge rolling farm. Most New Zealanders live there. Much of the rugged South Island has been preserved as parkland.

Polynesians arrived there in the middle of the tenth century. Explorer Kupe named the islands Aotearoa meaning Land of the Long White Cloud. No one followed for hundreds of years until other Polynesians eventually came, amalgamated with the original inhabitants and established the Maori society. Abel Tasman arrived in 1642 but did not tarry since several of his crew were slain. He named the islands Nieuw Zeeland for the Dutch province. Captain James Cook was the next European to arrive and he claimed the islands for the British crown. The Maoris were not impressed with these strange, pale-skinned interlopers and gave them a rough reception. Despite this whalers, missionaries and merchants came and a new colony was formed.

Parliament Buildings aka BeeHive photo by G. Wilson

Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, was named after the Duke of Wellington, who served as British Prime Minister from 1828 to 1830. The city curves gracefully around the port and its houses seem to flow out of the hills, right down to the sea. A trolley train links the heights to downtown Wellington.

Wellington and its red cable car photo by G. Wilson

Katherine Mansfield

The writer, Katherine Mansfield, was born in Wellington in 1888. Known as one of the greatest short story and essay writers of her time. Her home at 25 Tinakori Road has been restored and is open daily. She died in France of tuberculosis at the age of 34.

The small nation prospered and promoted causes long before the rest of the world. Women were given the right to vote in 1898, nearly thirty years before any other nation. New Zealand supported the Allies in both World Wars, losing more soldiers as a percentage of its population in WW I than any other country.

Prinsendam in Wellington Harbour from Mount Victoria photo by G. Wilson

Two Travellers at the top of Sky City, Auckland

As we stood staring out at the city and Rangitoto Island in the distance, we were shocked and alarmed to see a body fly past us, falling fast towards the ground. When another followed that one in quick succession, we realized some daring devils were on the peak seeking the ultimate thrill by throwing themselves off the top of Sky Tower.

High Jumpers

Two tourists in Beachcomber Chairs in Auckland's Harbour about to board the Prinsendam

Team New Zealand's entry in America's Cup Races for 2003

Auckland's harbour was abuzz with boats awaiting the start of the America's Cup races. The Kiwis had won it twice before and were striving to be the first racing team in history to win three America's Cups back to back. We did not stay to see the races, but learned the winner for 2003 was of all places, land-locked Switzerland!

Bay of Islands and on right Cape Brett Lighthouse photo by G. Wilson

Bay of Islands is aply named for the crystal, clear, turquoise waters are dotted with 150 islands, the centre of some have been worn away creating holes large enough to allow boats to pass through. The Bay of Islands is the site of New Zealand's first permanent English settlement. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here by 46 Maori chiefs in 1840. It established British governorship and granted Maori citizenship and land rights. It forms the basis of race relations in New Zealand to this day.

Glow Worm Cave at the Waitomo Caves

We boarded a boat in this cave for a ride in complete darkness and silence. The attraction is the Waitomo Glow Worm of which there are millions. These bio-luminescent glow worms live on the roof of the cave. After hatching, the larva eventually reaches the size and shape of a matchstick. It builds a nest of mucus and silk in the shape of a hollow tube attached to the roof. About 20 or 30 threads - lighted fishing lines - each coated with a sticky substance, hang from the tube. These are illuminated and flying insects are attraced to the light where they become trapped on the sticky lines which the glowworm reels in and then devours the insect. Absolute silence is necessary because, if they are disturbed by noise, they extinguish their lighted lines.

Bill Black, Sheep-Searer Par Excellent photo by G. Wilson

One of the attraction near the caves was Bill Black, an entrepreeur with a variety of activities to attract tourists. One was his amazing ability to sheer sheep while carrying on a hilarious commentary. The fact that he looked a lot like Robin Williams added to his humour. Next stop: Napier.

A Couple at Cape Kidnappers photo by Bob Boobi

One of the recommeded tours in New Zealand took us to Napier and Cape Kidnappers. This unusual name resulted from an unusual event that took place in 1769. The peripatetic Captain James Cook visited this part of the globe among many others, and it was he who gave the name to the place. Apparently, the local tribes wanted for some reason, to influence Cook and they decided to do it by kidnapping his trusted Tahitian interpreter. The attempt failed, but to commemorate the attempt, Cook bestowed the epithet on the place where it occurred.

A painting displaying the commanding presence of Captain James Cook, one of the world's greatest explorers, done in 1780

Interestingly, the great navigator recorded the presence in the place of numerous animals, but he neglected to include the gannet. Each year thousands of these beautiful birds migrate to what is called the most accessible nesting place for marine birds, one of only two known mainland gannet colonies in the world. They flock to the seaside cliffs to mate and mother the chicks. Known as boobies, they are awkward on land, but fleet and fast in the air and water, into which they dive at speeds up to 100 miles an hour. A close up look at the birds and their babies is afforded by walkways that are within a few feet of them. They seem to know that observers may not enter onto their turf and casually go about their business while hundreds of peeping-tom tourists watch their every move. Beware that the wind blows towards, rather than from the flocks, since the odour of their outpouring is overpowering.

Boobies and their Babies photo by G. Wilson

More Boobies and their Babies photo bo G. Wilson

A beautiful sight to sea photo by G. Wilson

Maori War Canoe

This Maori war canoe, the largest in the world, was built in 1940 from three massive kauri trees. Smaller canoes of the same design were used for raiding parties on long, coastal voyages both before and after European settlements. The canoe is 35 metres long and carries a crew of 90 paddlers. It is launched annually to commemorate the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi.

Christ Church Cathedral in Nelson, N.Z. photo by G. Wilson

Aft on the Prinsendam at Picton, N.Z.

Queen Charlotte Sound with Shags on the mud bank at Picton, N.Z. [Sound named after George III's wife.] photo by G. Wilson

Christchurch is the South Island's largest city and the Garden City claims the title of New Zealand's most beautiful city.

Christchurch N.Z. photo by G. Wilson

Dunedin, N.Z. middle photo by G. Wilson

Dunedin, once New Zealand's most prosperous city, is the home of some very elaborate buildings courtesy of the wealthy merchants who once lived there.

A Soaring Albatross photo by G. Wilson

While at Dunedin, we boarded the 55-foot launch, Monarch, and took a two-hour Wildlife Cruise in Otago Harbour to Tairoa Head, where we visited the Royal Albatross Colony, the only one in the world. We could see the albatross high upon the rocky hill, guarding with their life-long mates, the young chicks, which they have every two years. The birds mature in six years and have a life expectancy of 45 years. One of the world's largest birds, it has a wingspan of up to ten feet and can fly at speeds of up to 115 km an hour. While clumsy on land, they are "pure ecstasy in the air," and it was wonderful to see these great birds soaring about us. They spend 80 per cent of their time at sea, where they surface shoal for fish and squid.

Albatross and Chick

Kia ora Tatou
[Farewell in Maori]

So said New Zealand's outgoing Prime Minister, Labour Party leader, Helen Clark, after serving the nation of 4.1 million people for nearly a decade. The Kiwis decided instead on John Key, a multimillionaire, and leader of the conservative National Party. One policy unlikely to change regardless of the party in power - the long-standing ban on nuclear-powered ships entering New Zealand ports

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