Like Greece, early Italy was organized around independent city-states, each of which developed its own government and controlled the surrounding hinterland. Among the many were Rome, Florence, Pisa, Naples and Venice. There was a good deal of inter-city rivalry and competition was keen and chaotic. The wealthiest and chief maritime city-state was Venice. The most turbulent was Florence.

As the Middle Ages melded into the Renaissance, the medieval society of chivalry and nobility yielded to one based on ideals of self-sufficiency, civic virtue, intelligence and almost unlimited trust in man's abilities.

Florence

The Renaissance was in full bloom in Florence, another world set so unobtrusively among its hills. Art and culture flourished in this lovely city, enlivened by the wealth and influence of the Medici family. The middle of the 15th century saw Cosimo Medici, one of the Florentine bankers, taking control and becoming the city's political "boss." Florence was blessed or cursed with this one very powerful family for several hundred years. Its most distinguished member was Cosimo's grandson, Lorenzo the Magnificent.

Lorenzo acquired wealth and power and became the city's unchallenged lord and Florence's golden age occurred during the reign of Il Magnifico. He was an astute politician, a highly educated man and a great patron of the arts. He gathered about him philosophers, architects, musicians and visionary artists, who redefined painting, sculpture, music and architecture. Florentines, whose fame flourished in that rich, luxury-loving place, included names that resound through history - Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Boccaccio, Galileo, Dante and Rossini.

Michelangelo was grateful for funding from the Medicis, for which he said he spent a good part of his life designing, building and beautifying the inside of the Medici mansion.

Medici Palace photo by G. Wilson

Legend has it that Florence's Basilica of Santa Croce was founded by St Francis himself. Begun in 1294, it was paid for by some of the city's wealthiest families. It is best known for Florentine artwork and the tombs of its illustrious dead. It is thought to contain more skeletons of Renaissance celebrities than any other in Italy.

The Florentines mentioned above were all buried in that basilica and they bring the world to wonder at their greatness. When we had the good fortune to enter this most impressive basilica, it was an emotional moment, indeed, to look upon the monuments of men whose achievements amazed the world then and still do today.

Basilica di Santa Croce Holy Cross photo by G. Wilson

The placement of Michelangelo's tomb is on the right front of the basilica.

Tomb of Michelangelo Santa Croce Basilica photo by G. Wilson

Michelangelo's Tomb Basilca di Santa Croce

The location of his tomb was chosen by Michelangelo himself so that,
"The first thing I see on Judgement Day, when the graves of the dead fly open, will be Brunelleschi's dome through Santa Croce's open doors."

Filippo Brunelleschi's Dome

The colossal size and great height of the dome on the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore are unprecedented. The same word can be used to describe the doors as well as the dome on this beautiful cathedral. Michelangelo himself dubbed the doors, "Gates of Paradise." Completed in 1452, they are some of the most beloved works of Renaissance art.

Five hundred years of outdoor exposure have left the enormous, golden doors, each 16 feet high and weighing two tons, dirty and damaged. They have not been seen publicly since being taken to the city's conservation and renovation centre. Copies have replaced the originals that are now next door in the Museo dell' Opera del Duomo.

Gates of Paradise

Michelangelo's Family Crest in Santa Croce photo by G. Wilson

The soul of the Renaissance, Michelangelo - sculptor, architect, poet and painter - was perhaps the world's greatest artist.

Michelangelo's skill with marble was unmatched. In Florence he was challenged to chisel a statue from a block of Carrara marble thirteen and a half feet high in two years. For two and a half years, he toiled and from his labour came the magnificent David, a majestic work of art over 5 metres in height, When asked how he accomplished what he did, Michelangelo replied, the statue "was already in the marble block ... I had only to cut away the little pieces around it."

DAVID photo by G. Wilson

Michelangelo, the poet, wrote:

The best of artists hath no thought to show
Which the rough stone in its superflous shell
Doth not include: to break the marble spell
Is all the hand that serves the brain can do.

Shane Wilson, an equally fine artist, would put it thus:

The best of artists hath no thought to show,
Which rough bone, bronze, ivory, antler in their superflous shells
Do not include: to break the bony spell
Is all the hand that serves the brain can do.

Moose Antler transformed by the skill of Shane's hands into a magnificent Male Seahorse.

Memorial to Dante Santa Croce photo by G. Wilson

The Renaissance really sprang from the pens of a number of Italian writers, one of whom was Dante, a master poet. A man with rare skill as a writer and true poetic insight, Dante is thought to have heralded the Renaissance with his daring criticism of the Church. During the Renaissance period, the writing of poetry was a popular pastime and almost half of its literature was anticlerical. .

Dante's most famous work, the Divine Comedy, is preoccupied with religion and the after-life. In it he searches for "Truth" on his trip through Heaven, Hell, and Purgatory. In Purgatory, Paradise and Hell, people representing every phase of human life are found. Dante consigns the German Emperor Henry VII to Heaven and because Dante was critical of the Church, he boldly, given the time and the temper of the Church, consigned Pope Boniface to Hell. His writing displayed an individualism that became characteristic of the Renaissance period.

The memorial to Dante, the greatest Italian poet, is on the right side wall nearby the tomb of Michelangelo. It is not a tomb for Dante is buried in Ravenna.

Dante's Monument

Once the retreat of Roman emperors, Ravenna is on the coast of the Adriatic in northeast Italy. The city was captured by the Venetians in 1441. Julius II reclaimed it for the papacy in 1509. Three years later, it was sacked by a French army and it suffered a second sacking during the Second World War. For supporting the losing side in Florence, Dante was exiled He was later given permission to return to Florence providing he paid a large fine. Believing he had done no wrong, he refused. He was warned that should he return without paying the fine, he would be burned at the stake. His exile became permanent and he died at Ravenna in 1321.

"Parvi Florentia mater amoris
Florence, mother of little love."

Dante's Tomb in Ravenna

Florentines have long since forgiven Dante and have been trying for hundreds of years to reclaim their "divine poet." Ravennans refuse to part with their poet and proclaim: "Florence did not welcome him in life, so it does not deserve him in death."

Machiavelli's Tomb, Santa Croce photo by G. Wilson

Tomb of Machiavelli

The Florentine diplomat, Machiavelli, an eager, nervous, ambitious spirit was said to have been the most cynical thinker of his time. His absorbing interest was politics and his observations about it opened new routes on what then were relatively untravelled seas. Because human nature never changed, Machiavelli said the science of government was possible.

"Whoever wishes to foresee the future, must consult the past, for human events ever resemble those preceding of times. They are produced by men, who are ever animated by the same passions and thus have the same results."

Interested in states, not humanity, Machiavelli's revealing study called The Prince exposed the ways and wiles of rulers. This practical guide for powerful politicians told them how to win and hold power, regardless of moral considerations. Machievelli chose the son of Pope Alexander VI, Cesare Borgia, as his model prince. Cesare, an ideal subject, was a ruthless man who engineered the deaths of his elder brother and his sister's second husband. He had a remarkable career and Machiavelli portrayed him as having the highest ideals of a successful ruler. He could not afford to worry about right or wrong, but simply ensure any means to secure his state's safety.

Critics condemned the book lauding deceit and treachery, claiming Machiavelli's bitter attitude resulted soley from frustration and anger at being dismissed from public service by the Medicis. Supporters said Machiavelli was simply revealing the "mechanics of statecraft." While Machievelli became the symbol and synonym for the devil at work in affairs of state, he was really doing no more than expressing, all be it with some cynicism, the Italian attitude at the time towards the conduct of public business.

Galileo's Tomb

Galileo was born in Pisa. The great scientist was denied a Christian burial until 100 years after his death, for defying the Church's dictum that the earth was the centre of the universe. He contended with Copernicus that the sun occupied this central site, despite receiving an order from the Inquisition that he not, "hold or defend" the idea that the Earth moves and the Sun stands still at the centre. Finally tried and broken by the Inquisition, Galileo was found "vehemently suspect of heresy," forced to recant and spend the rest of his life under house arrest. While down he was not out, for he muttered, "Eppure si muove" (And yet it does move.) Galileo's tomb is located on the left wall of Santa Croce's Basilica.

Rossini's Tomb in Santa Croce

Rossini was not a Renaissance resident, but was the most popular opera composer of his time. Signor Crescendo, was also one of the most prolific, premiering no less than foru operas in 1813, two of which, Tancred and L'Italiana in Algeri, were smash hits. He created 39 operas. His best known works include Il barbiere di Siviglia (The Barber of Seville), La Cenerentola, La gazza ladra (The Thieving Magpie) and Guillaume Tell (William Tell). His seemingly inexhaustible supply of song-like melodies are evident throughout his scores and they resulted in the nickname, "The Italian Mozart." He could produce arias in a matter of minutes and once claimed he could happily set a laundry list to music. Until his retirement in 1829, Rossini was the most popular opera composer in history. He died at his country house at Passy on Friday November 13, 1868 and was buried in Père Lachaise Cemetery, Paris, France. In 1887 his remains were moved to the Basilica di Santa Croce di Firenze, in Florence, where they now rest.

Pisa

When you think of Pisa, what comes to mind? The landmark that leans which is the most popular of all Italy's many tourist attractions. The city-state of Pisa was once so rich, it transformed mountains of marble into a cathedral, baptistery and the Leaning Tower, the bell tower of the city's cathedral. Its wealth came from its strategic location at the mouth of the Arno, a focal point for trade and transit. When it became dominated by neighbouring Florence, Pisa's economic and political power faded. The city was heavily bombed during WW II, but miraculously, the tower was neither hit nor tipped as a result of the explosions that shook the city.

Arno River and City of Pisa

Torre Pendent of Pisa photo by G.Wilson

Pisa is famous for its Middle Ages masterpiece. Construction was started on this marble mass in the year 1174 and only three of its eight arcade-storeys were completed before its tilting told them something was amiss. It is thought its Florentine architect, Bonanno, dug too deeply. The firm soil was near the surface and he accessed the waterlogged soil deposited by the nearby Arno river. Doubtless praying for a prop that would lessen the lean, workers resumed their task during which the tower came close to collapsing twice.

Word was widespread that Bonanno was economizing on materials for his own profit. A cartoon of the time had him saying, "I cut a few corners on the materials, but no one will ever know." Left to lean for some 90 years, it was finally completed and crowned with the belfry in the middle of the 14th century. Over the years, some fourteen commissions have been consulted to come up with a solution to the tipping tower for, "It is unthinkable that it should fall down."

In early 2000, the latest lot attempted the task and their efforts appear to have been successful. The tower had been firmly anchored to the earth. When we were there, no one was allowed to climb the steps to see the sights from the top. It is now possible to do so.

Pisa's Leaning Tower photo by B.Wilson

Baptistry, Pisa Church and Leaning Tower photo by G.Wilson

In the late 1500's, everyone knew that heavy objects fell faster than lighter ones. After all, Aristotle said so. It "ain't necessarily so," to paraphrase Galileo Galilei, who held a chair in mathematics at the University of Pisa. Legend has it that Galileo disproved the pronouncement of Aristotle by using Pisa's tippsy tower to conduct an experiment on the nature of gravity by dropping metal balls from the 187-foot height. History says this legend has no basis in fact, but it may not be false. Nevertheless, Galileo did prove that regardless of weight, objects fall at the same rate of speed, which increases through the fall, if there is no air friction.

Rome

"Roma, non basta na vita."
Rome, a lifetime is not enough

The successor to the Greek civilization was the Roman Empire and remnants of its famous sites and monuments are much in evidence everywhere in the eternal city. Many are worried that these ancient echoes from the past are showing serious signs of destruction from heat, cold, damp and air-borne pollution.

Rome is filled with reminders of that glorious and not so glorious period, The ciy's 2700-year old history was on display wherever we looked. Surrounding us as we strolled about were arches, columns, sculptures, pediments and other pieces of the past - all leftovers of legends such as Caesar, Nero, Titus, Claudius and Caligula.

On one of our walks about the city, we rounded a bend in the road and there before us was a sight to behold. We stopped and stared in awe at a place that haunts Rome's history. It is not fantasy to say, that at that moment, we could hear the rabid roars of 70,000 voices cascading from the Colosseum. Because the citizens of Rome could never be satiated with enough savagery, no effort was spared by the masters and their minions to feed the hordes and find new ways of killing to keep Romans content with their panis et circenses.

Colosseum

"Ave, imperator, murituri te salutant."
We who are about to die, salute you.

In the Depths of Despair photo by G. Wilson

The violence of those voices resounded in our ears as we walked where condemned criminals awaited terror at the teeth of ravenous tigers. On the opening day of the Flavian Amphitheatre, the Colosseum's official name, 5000 wild creatures were killed and human beings became food that was bolted down by beasts starved for weeks, as the crowd cried out for more. To see the site of so much horror, tourists have for centuries walked and wondered as they passed through the tunnels of this 'obstinate oval,' the unforgettable symbol of this city.

Come to the Colosseum photo by Thurla

When gladiatorial combat came to an end by the 6th century, pieces were put to peaceful uses when the colosseum was mangled for its metal and other materials to be used in the construction of Renaissance churches and palaces.

The Colosseum - Itself the Casualty photo by G. Wilson

Modern Italy intruded upon our memories of the Middle Ages, when we came upon an enormous white marble monument at the symbolic heart of pagan Rome, the Capitoline Hill.Roman ruins and medieval churches were destroyed when it was built there in 1885 as a tribute to the first King of a united Italy, Victor Emmanuel II, who became a symbol of the movement for a united Italy. After his army joined forces with Garibaldi and defeated the papal army, the Kingdom of Italy was proclaimed in 1861 and Victor became King. In 1911, at the 50th anniversary of the new kingdom, the new symbol of a united Italy was inaugurated.

Victor Emmanuel Monument

The monster monument was often used as backdrop for mangled mouthings of Mussolini in his carefully staged appearances as he pompously posed as the people's praetor.

Romans ridicule his memory and the monument with the nicknames: Typewriter and Wedding Cake.

More of Victor's Vanity photo by B. Wilson

St. Peter's Basilica, whose interior accommodates 60,000 people, is the largest Christian church in the world. Synonymous with Rome, St. Peter's is, in fact, located in Vatican City, which is not technically in Rome. Construction of the present basilica, over the old Constantinian basilica, began on April 18, 1506 and was completed on November 18, 1626. In Catholic tradition, it is the burial site of its namesake Saint Peter, who was one of the twelve apostles of Jesus and according to tradition, the first Bishop of Rome.

St. Peter's Basilica, photo by B. Wilson

St. Peter photo by G. Wilson

St. Paul photo by B. Wilson

Pompeii

Not far from Naples is ancient Pompeii, preserved forever by volcanic ash and mud as a museum of daily life. Pompeii is a paradox, for we simultaneously know a huge amount, but very little, about life there. This ruined Roman city was buried during a catastrophic eruption of the Mount Vesuvius believewd to have occurred the morning of August 23rd AD 79. All tried to flee the volcanic ash and most managed with the exception of about 2,000 from an estimated population of up to 30,000. This petrified place is the tomb of a town, many of whose residents were caught and completely covered by the magnma spewed out of their mountain. It marks as welll as a memorial to a violent volcano, whose once smoldering summit is now serene. The site is annually explored by thousands, who climb to beat the summer heat and thrill to the magnificent view of the curve of the coast and the tiny white houses nestled among trees and fields of flowers. A visit to Pompeii almost never disappoints

Pieces of Pompeii in the Civil Forum of that famed and fateful city. photo by G. Wilson

A Vista of You and a Veiled View of Mt. Vesuvius through the Arch of Caligula at Pompeii photo by B. Wilson

We walked through the dust and cinders of 25 centuries. What was once the bustling Cote d'Azur of the Roman Empire, is now a series of dark and mostly deserted streets where some 2,000 people were suddenly and without warning solidified in time at their tasks. As we looked at the locked-in locations, we began to understand that the perplexing pleasure of visiting Pompeii, was not so much simply seeing the sights, but the feelings we felt about the sights that we saw.

The Isle of Capri

The lovely lotus land is a limestone island that gets its name from the herds of capre (goats), that once scampered about its hills.

Shaking the dust of Pompeii from our feet, we hopped on a hydrofoil at Naples and with the wind in our faces and the sun sparkling on the sea, we took a most refreshing forty minute ride to one of the loveliest spots in Italy. Not surprisingly it was once the treasured, pleasure-place of Roman emperors. Augustus vacationed there. Tiberis called it his heavenly home from 27 AD and 37 AD, during which he built beautiful villas about the island. He loved life there so much, he refused to return to Rome to die.

Isle of Capri photo by G. Wilson

Lovely Life on the Isle of Capri photo by B. Wilson

An absolute must for tourists who tarry is the Grotta Assurra, a cave 'discovered' in 1826. This blue beauty's extraordinary sapphire colour is caused by a hidden opening in the rock that refracts the light. We boarded a boat with others and were taken to a location not far from the entrance to the Blue Grotto, where we awaited the arrival of our rowboat, for each couple had its own.

Anxiously awaitng the transfer to our rowboat photo by G. Wilson

When it arrived, we climbed gingerly into it and our rower took us to the very entrance of the cave. With well-practised precision, he waited until the waves were just right, told us to duck and quickly rowed into the blackness of the cave as the waves washed the opening away behind us.

Inside the Blue Grotto photo by G. Wilson

Within it was lovely, cool and dark, the sole source of light the distant cave's cavity waning and waxing with the waves. It was the only entrance and hopefully, our exit. The guide sat silently while we looked about savering the silence and the colours in the cave. Suddenly he hummed a few bars of what sounded like the Isle of Capri. It was a moment to remember.

Venice
"Up from the muck."

The Spirit of Venice

Visions of Venice from the Grand Canal photo by G. Wilson

Venice was founded in the 5th century by mainlanders fleeing from the Lombards from what is today, Veneto. Apparently, finding firm footing awfully scarce, the inventive Veneti built shelters atop wooden posts driven into the marshes. This swampy start grew into the maritime city of Venice, whose people career about canals that wind throughout this water-logged city.

The Venetians, once a wealthy and powerful people, agreed to transport crusaders on their mission to manhandle the Moslems out of the Holy City. Instead of sacking Saladin's settlements, they became sidetracked by the sight of so much wealth beyond wonder, and ran amok, pillaging and plundering Christian Constantinople. This once great sea power now depends on tourists, who come to marvel at a city that is sitting and sinking into mud and water.

Our trip to the square was by boat in which we travelled across the Grand Canal, a waterway crowded with cruising craft of various shapes and sizes.

On the Grand Canal on our way to San Marcho Square photo by G. Wilson

Disembarking at San Marcho Square photo by G. Wilson

The destination for many is Piazza San Marco, a large square in which pigeons and people vie for space on walkways often wet from the Grand Canal's encroaching waters.

San Marcho Square photo by G. Wilson

The Piazzo San Marco is located in the heart of Venice. This vast open space, bordered by a variety of buidings, was packed with people. At one end is the Basilica San Marco, a very interesting church. When Napoleon and his troops entered Venice in 1797, he was very impressed with its Piazza San Marco. The Little Corporal called it "the world's most beautiful drawing room," and ordered it redecorated.

Sights and sounds of San Marco Square photo by G.Wilson

One of the many impressive structures on the fringe of the square is the Palazzo Ducale, or Doge’s Palace. It was the seat of the government of Venice for centuries. As well as being the home of the Doge, the elected ruler of Venice, it was the venue for its law courts, its civil administration and bureaucracy and until its relocation across the Bridge of Sighs, the city jail.

Doge's Palace photo by G. Wilson

Gondoliers and Gondolas awaiting tourists to take on a romantic ride on the Canals of Venice photo by G. Wilson

Pat and Thurla photo by G. Wilson

Rome Personified photo by G. Wilson

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