Sagres photo by G. Wilson

Sagres photo by G. Wilson

Sagres photo by G. Wilson

Sagres is a village in the Southwest of Portugal, where land ends and the Atlantic Ocean begins, This ridge, high atop windswept crags, where the boundless sea commences its course towards Africa, is starkly beautiful. Perpetual winds whistle over the barren headland and out across the ocean, whipping up white caps that dot the distance as far as the eye can see. Below the mighty sea surges and foams ashore, thundering against the rocky ramparts of fortress Europe. Sensational sights and sounds combine with the salty smell of the sea, its fresh, bracing fragrance as clean and sharp as the view of the great, blue ocean. stretching away as far as the eye can see.

On the precipice of this promontory, Henry the Navigator, who never set foot on an ocean-going vessel, was one of the great, driving forces behind world exploration, established his school of navigation. Gathering about him astronomers, cartographers, shipwrights and sailors, Henrique, son of the King of Portugal, convened his small court, an informal clearing house of nautical knowledge and enterprise. The astronomers and ship-builders, cartographers and instrument-makers, navigators and geographers were men like himself, all fascinated with discovery and seaborne trade. Comprised of the greatest sailors and scientists of the day, Henry's court planned and plotted Portugal's conquest of the seas. Romans named this hauntingly beautiful, desolate place, Sacrum promotorium, [Promontory where gods gathered]. In tribute to the Ships passing this last lonely point of land, still dip their sails in tribute to the man and his memory.

Beware the Rocks of Sagres photo by G. Wilson

Henry's Fortress photo by G. Wilson

Walls of Henry's Fortress photo by G. Wilson

Henry's eyrie at Sagres was an oblong defensive works enclosing plain stone buildings, the ruins of which remain on the bleak landscape. Inside the walls of the fortress, which date from the 15th century, there is a large, impressive geometric figure, which was discoverd in 1928. Made of rough stones and measuring some 43 metres in diameter, it is thought to be a rosa dos ventos, a 'wind rose' or mariner's compass, dating back to Henry's time.

Rosa dos Ventos [Compass] photo by G. Wilson

Here Henry concentrated everything needed to attract and supply seamen - naval provisions, food, water, even a chapel for worship. In addition he accumulated invaluable information about winds, tides and ocean currents as well as improved maps and charts he had commissioned. By combining knowledge, skill and daring, Henry opened uncharted seas to discovery and exploration and in the process inspired faith and dispelled myths about the "end of the world." Sagres was a hive of effort and energy and the point of departure for explorers who launched the Age of Portuguese discoveries thereby enlarging the known world.

Statue of Henry the Navigator photo by G. Wilson

Inspired by Henry's vision and nurtured by his knowledge, his captains inched their way down the coast of Africa seeking to find for Henry what lay to the south of the great sea. Daunted by this unepected projection and fearful of what lay below, for horrible tales were told of what awaited unwary seamen, they turned tail and sailed for home, disheartened and hopes dashed of finding the end of the land that loomed to the south.

Henry scoffed at their failure because of fears. Undaunted Henry harried them to screw up their courage, cast caution to the winds and face whatever fate awaited. Motivated by this man who knew no fear, they upped anchors and wafted by the winds, headed south again. finding this time naught to fear, just fair and fertile lands.

Thereafter, all their trips were trial runs for the long voyage around Africa and west to the new world. Henry sent out expeditions to islands off Portugal and along the African coast past Cape Verde. His captains discovered Madeira and other jewels of the sea like the Azores and Cape Verde Islands and pushed down the coast of Africa to the Gulf of Guinea. For forty years he and his aides stacked and studied accounts of sailors and other travellers, their wide-ranging risks making Portugal the acknowledged centre of geographic and maritime science.

On the 13 November, 1460, Prince Henry died at the age of 66 years, but the search of the sea went on.

Portugal was to ocean exploration what the United States and Russia are to space research. No less brave than the astronauts and cosmonauts who soar into limitless space, were seaman who sailed into the equally awesome unknown seas "to seek, to find and not to yield."

The Portuguese pioneered the European exploration and one of Portugal's greatest explorers was Vasco da Gama.

Vasco da Gama

On 8 July 1497, Vasco, as hard-bitten as his crew of criminals, rogues and rascals, set sail to find a sea route to the fabled riches of the East. An obscure but well-connected courtier, he was chosen by King Manuel I to head up an ambitious expedition to chart a new route to India. He proved to be a brilliant navigator and commander. Combining courage with lots of good luck, he survived violent storms, restive and unruly seas and hostile rulers. Contrary of Columbus, his sea-faring rival, Vasco headed south, inching his way down the coast of Africa farther than any previous explorer. In 137 days he rounded the Cape of Good Hope, the first European to do so. He travelled 178 more days to reach Calicut, a major trading post on the coast of India, where he anchored on 20 May 1498, ten months and twelve days after leaving Lisbon. On 29 August, he left loaded with a rich cargo of the most precious of commodities - pepper, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, as well as jewellery, for an arduous year-long return trip, arriving home to much acclaim. For his glorious success at sea, VAsco received the title, Admiral of the Indian Ocean. His courage and remarkable seamanship provided Portugal with a toll-free route to India with wide economic results for Europe.

Voyaging Vasco

Vasco was sent to India a second time in 1503 and later became Portuguese viceroy to that country. In December 1424, he fell ill and died at Goa and his remains were returned to Portugal for burial at Vidigueira.

We were immediately attracted to the tomb of this great explorer whose name, Vasco da Gama, is familiar to all grade five students.

Tomb of Admiral Dom Vasco da Gama (c. 1469 - 1524) Count of Vidigueira, Vice-Roy of India photo by G. Wilson

Famous Feet

As much as anyone after Henry the Navigator, Gama was responsible for Portugal's success as an early colonizing power. His astute mix of politics and war on the other side of the world placed Portugal in a prominent position in Indian Ocean trade. He died in 1524 of malaria and was buried at St. Francis Church, Fort Kochi, but his remains were returned to Portugal in 1539 and re-interred in Vidigueira in a splendid tomb.

More valuable than Henry's lifetime achievements was the impetus he gave to exploration which continued long after his death. It led to discovery and maping of two-thirds of the globe as we know it today including the beautiful island of Madeira. Explorations als opened up routes to Brazil, India, and the Far East. Before Henry's time, men shared the spirit of discovery; he orchestrated it.

Funchal Capital City of Madiera photo by G. Wilson

Ready for our ride down the rocks. Madeira photo by John

View from our hotel window Madeira photo by G. Wilson

Madeira Sunset from our hotel window, photo by G. Wilson

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