Route of our Ride Through Egypt, Jordan, Israel

EGYPT

Accompanied by his wailing wives and a procession that included relatives, friends, embalmers and a priest, the pharaoh's body was ferried to the place of purification on the left bank of the Nile.The priest read from a papyrus scroll as the purification rituals were performed on the body. At the Hall of the God Anybus, the embalmer cut open the abdomen and removed the entrails, the liver and the lungs. The brain was removed through the nasal septum. The heart was not removed because it was thought to be the place of wisdom and intelligence. The ritual, including the mummification, sometimes took a year to complete, before the body was finally entombed in a pyramid.

The pyramid evolved from mastabas, huge brick tombs with sloping sides. This in turn evolved into the step pyramid, a stack of six mastabas of decreasing size.

King Zoser's, Step Pyramid at Sakkara photo by G. Wilson

Successors to Zoser's step pyramid perfected the true pyramid by filling in the steps creating smooth sides. These emerged at the beginning of the Fourth Dynasty.

The Great Pyramids are located at Giza, the gigantic burial grounds on a plateau that covers two thousand square metres. They were constructed so that none hides the sun from the others. All have burial chambers carved out of rock in the centre. Cheops' pyramid took 50,000 workmen the whole of his 23-year reign to construct. Khafre's pyramid was only slightly less impressive than his father's, Menkaure's pyramid was the smallest, likely because at that time there were fewer material resources. His reign of three decades was longer than his father's, but Menkaure's pyramid was not completed in his lifetime. It was finished not by his son, the legitimate heir to the throne, but by another son of one of the secondary queens.

Left to Right:from Giza Plateau Khufu (Greek - Cheops) (father) Khafre (Greek - Chephren) (son) Menkaure (Greek - Mycerinus) (grandson) photo by G. Wilson

Khufu (father)

Khafre (son) photo by G. Wilson

Menkaure (grandson) photo by G. Wilson

Some of the blocks from nearby quarries used in the construction of Menkaure's pyramid reached gigantic proportions ( 8.5 by 5.3 by 3 metres) and weighed 220 tons. When stone was not available nearby, it was brought down the Nile River as far as several hundred kilometres. According to mason's inscriptions, workers transported three hundred to six hundred blocks daily. The vizier as "head of all royal works" was ultimately responsible for the success of the project. First at the 'project office' plans were drawn up on papyrus. While the work was underway, construction details were drawn on papyri or flat slabs of limestone. We know planners even made models.

Egyptians knew practical mathematics. "If we imagine a circle whose radius is the height of the pyramid, then the circumference is identical with the base of the pyramid. Even if they could not define the value of pi, they used it in practice." (The Pyramids by M. Verner)

Heavy with history, the magnificent monuments stand stark and gigantic in the drifting sand and the burning sun. Like Caesar, we stare and wonder at the centuries seen by these timeless tombs, vainglorious repositories of corpses of kings seeking eternal life. Built of large blocks of limestone, these wonders of the ancient world date from 3000 BC to 2300 BC. Originally plastered on the outside, this covering has disappeared over thousands of years, revealing the tiers or steps underneath, each about a metre in height. Built by kings as crypts and memorials to themselves, construction of the massive mausolems was started at the beginning of each reign, their height corresponding with the length of the dynasty.

Nearby, the Sphinx, half-lion, half-menacing man, glares back at the great and the merely mortal, who flock to look upon this massive monolith thought to have been built ca. 2990 BC. The name, 'Sphinx', means "living image," but of whom? Personifying mystery and antiquity, it has fascinated and fired the imagination of millions over millennia, who have wondered why, when and by whom it was built. Many Egyptologists believe the creature was the creation of Khafre, constructed at the same time as his pyramid.

Nicknamed the Father of Terror by locals who look upon it daily, the monumental creature was chiseled out of natural rock and completed with ochre-coloured masonry, traces of which remain. It has been sculpted by wind and sand over the centuries, but the sad state of its beard and nose is said to have resulted from its use for target practice by the Mameluke sultan, leader of a powerful Turkish military caste, that ruled Egypt during the Mamluk Dynasty from 1250-1517 AD.

The Great Sphinx in front of Khafre's Pyramid photo by G. Wilson

King Tutankhamun and Queen Ankhesenamun Depicted on Papyrus photo by G. Wilson

Papyrus, which gives us the word 'paper,' is the giant Nile water-reed from which the ancient Egyptians manufactured a material for writing and painting. Made from the stems of the papyrus plant, plain papyrus sheets were initially used in ancient Egypt during the First Dynasty, dating back as far as 3100 BC.

Cairo Museum photo by G.Wilson

This museum will soon be replaced at another location by a new structure much more fitting to feature the 100,000 or more exhibits, many of which have yet to be seen by the public. A very popular exhibition - doubtless the most popular - deals with the fabulous contents of the tomb of one of the least significant of the pharaohs - King Tutankhamun.

Tut's Mask and An Admirer photo by B. Wilson

Tut's Sarcophagus photo by G. Wilson

Tut's Golden Chariot photo by G. Wilson

Despite heinous torture for anyone caught pilfering the possessions of the pharaohs' eternal resting places, grave robbers ruthlessly raided them and carried off untold wonders of wealth in gold and silver, many of which would have outshone the brilliance and the value of those found untouched in Tut's tomb. One can only imagine the treasures in the tomb of Ramses II, Egypt's greatest Pharaoh, who ruled for 66 years, sired some eighty-eight children and died in his 90th or 91st year.

Ramses II

Ramses II at Abu Simbel "Look on his likeness and tremble." photo by G. Wilson

Despite its barren, desert landscape, the Sinai Peninsula has seen more than its share of history. Jews still honour the anniversary of the Exodus, literally 'going out,' their forebears' flight from Egypt into the Sinai for the land promised by God. It was here that Moses led his people and where for forty years, the barren bleakness supported them, even as it does nomadic Bedouins today. The quails, whose flesh and fertilizer sustained the Israelites, still flock to the Sinai. The manna, a sweet, honeydew substance secreted by aphids,is still valued the the wandering Bedouins.

Probable Route of the Exodus

One of the many mountains is Mount Sinai. Moses was summoned to this high, holy place where he "wrote on the tablets the words of the convenant - the Ten Commandments." Here Pharaohs found gold and searched for their gods, and where the Bedouins still camp beside ruins of Crusader Forts. Christianity, Judaism and Islam hallow Sinai as a holy land and over the years, saints, prophets, pilgrims and warriors have crossed this vast vacancy.

Most of the group faced fatigue and the early morning chill to accept the challenge of climbing Mount Sinai (Mount Moses) to see the spectacular sunrise from its summit. Some wise early risers opted for camels. Fortuitously, for the few who decided to walk, we were accompanied by disbelieving Bedouins bearing camels, who fully expected most walkers would weary. Treading uphill on the rocky path in darkness became daunting, for the flashlight beam missed a lot of loose rocks and rough ridges. In certain places, the path, built without barricades, dropped off into stoney blackness. Some riders began to realize how risky it was, should one's camel lose its footing or suddenly decide to rear and rid itself of its pesky passenger. Whether by beast or by boots, the route was a real challenge, and the question in many minds was how Moses ever made it to the summit.

Sunrise on Mount Sinai photo by G. Wilson

Sunrise on Mount Sinai photo by G. Wilson

Descent from Mount Sinai photo by Mohammed

Descent by camel was as arduous as ascent had been, for with each step of the animal, one was flung forward into the front pommel, only to be painfully poked in the back by the rear pommel as the big beast braked its forward movement. For some lurching along the rocky, risky pathway, the hour and a half ride seemed a sentence that would never end, Sight of the journey's end was hailed by the aching and the anxious, quite happy to dismount from the long-suffering ships of the desert. The camels' thick soles protected them from the heat of the desert sands, but not from the sharp, rock ridges and stones on which their big, flat feet fell again and again, as they laboured and lumbered up what must have seemed an endless climb. No doubt they were just as happy to be rid of their riders, as their riders were to be rid of them.

St. Catherine Monastery photo by G. Wilson

Located at the foot of Mount Moses, St Catherine Monastery has been called the oldest working Christian monastery. In fact, it is predated by St. Anthony's. It was originally ordered built by Empress Helen, the mother of Constantine the Great, but it was actually constructed by Emperor Justinian to house the bones of St. Catherine of Alexandria. The monastery's basilica was built by Emperor Justinian in 527 CE and it contains the Chapel of the Burning Bush among other icons. Parts of the bush were cut and planted in various places, but none took except the one planted here and it grows today within the chapel. The monastery also contains priceless works of art, including a wonderful Byzantine mosaic dating from the 6th century. [**]

The Burning Bush photo by G. Wilson

At one time the St. Catherine Monastery was inhabited by hundreds of monks, however, the holy place is now maintained by a very few, who welcome thousands of tourists annually. There is a small chapel within the monastery which houses the bones and skulls of monks who managed it over the centuries.

Skull House photo by G. Wilson

The monastery is also a formidable fortification which has withstood numerous attacks over its 14 centuries of existence.

Fortress St.Catherine photo by G. Wilson

JORDAN

The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan was created only 60 years ago, but Jordan has been the cradle of civilization since time immemorial and has the archeological sites to prove it The region abounds with history. It boasts the baptism site of Jesus, the mountain where Moses first saw the Promised Land, countless Crusader castles and Wadi Rum. The desert scenery of Wadi Rum was stark and striking, its weathered cliffs of stone featured what could be fancied the faces of men and monsters. Dunes shaped by the swirling winds were striking to behold, the sand and the silence home to various Bedouin tribes as they have been for generations. The area is known for its close connection to the enigmatic man, whose name was made popular by the film Lawrence of Arabia. And then there is glorious Petra, a World Heritage Site that cannot be overhyped as an archeological marvel.

Palestine's Partition

In 1919 Paris played host to the leaders of Britain, France and the United States, who met there to fashion a new world following the wreckage of the old wrought by World War I. Seeking to create new nations, numerous appellants appeared to appeal to the triumvirate for sanction and support. Among them was Emir Feisal, a descendant of Mohammed, who was seeking to create an Arab kingdom following the overthrow of the Ottoman Empire, which Winston Churchill reminded him had been accomplished by "the armies of Britain whose soldiers gave their blood and lives." Feisal was a striking figure with dark flashing eyes and features set off with a black beard trimmed to a fine point.

Following Feisal wherever he went was T.E. Lawrence, Lawrence of Arabia. Lawrence, who was twenty-eight at the time, was short and strongly built with a sandy complexion bronzed by the desert sun. He had remarkably blue eyes and a friendly face that broke readily into a smile.Lawrence had established his reputation by working on behalf of the Arabs during the Great Arab Revolt against the Ottoman Turks in 1917-18 and had become a very close friend of Feisal. When Feisal made his case for a country, Lawrence translated his speech into English, speaking with force and eloquence as he set out their position for nationhoood. Churchill considerd Lawrence "one of the greatest beings alive in this time." Some revisionist historians are considerably less complimentary about his contribution to the Arab cause and opinions vary as to his real service to them, One historian labelled Lawrence a dashing, daring, imaginative opportunist, whose efforts on behalf of the Arabs were advantageous more to his reputation than to their cause.

T.E. Lawrence

Lawrence of Arabia

In T.E. Lawrence's Own Words:

(1) "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds, wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men, for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible." (Seven Pillars of Wisdom: A Triumph)by T.E. Lawrence [****]
(2) "If only one might never come nearer to people than in the street," "
(3) "Don't believe more than 1/8 of any yarn you hear of me: or 1/16 if it is printed. I never do."
(4) "A Yank firm (Bone & Liverpool, or something) have pirated my Arabia Deserta preface, and are cheerful that the book is selling well in the States. It's nice to feel good enough to be stolen."

Another petitioner present in Paris that year was Chaim Weizmann, who pressed on behalf of the Anglo-Saxon Jewish community for Zionism, a home for Jews from around the world. His focus and that of Feisal's was Palestine. It was Churchill's responsibility as newly appointed Colonial Secretary to decide on the disposition of the desert lands, all freed finally from the Ottoman Turks by Britain and France. The latter's sphere of authority and influence was Lebanon and Syria. Palestine then comprised basically what today is Israel including the West Bank and the Gaza strip. Jordan was called Trans Jordan and Iraq was known as Mesopotamia.

Arthur Balfour, the British foreign secretary, was pressed frequently by Jewish officials in England for a homeland in Palestine, a place with plenty of space that was under populated. They made their appeal in the name of a people who had suffered "martyrdom for eighteen centuries". Balfour was sympathetic to their appeal and in 1917 issued what became known as the Balfour Declaration, in which he set out support for a Jewish state in Palestine "in so far as it could be established without infringing on the rights of Arab communities, both nomad as well as sedentary." Weizmann seized upon the declaration as a promise and pushed hard for a decision that would accomplish it. Arab response to the declaration was, >"Palestine for the Arabs; down with the Zionists." Feisal through Lawrence, declared if Weizmann's wish came true, "It would result in ferment, chronic unrest and sooner or later civil war in Palestine."

Weizmann hoped to influence Churchill's decision to implement the declaration by sending him a thousand-word appeal in which he asked Churchill to extend the eastern boundary of Palestine. He wanted the Jewish National Home, (Churchill's name rather than nation, which he thought less likely to stir up the Arabs) to be extended across the Jordan River beyond the Hedjaz railway line and include the whole of Transjordan. Churchill had already decided to separate Transjordan from Palestine.

In March 1921, the British cabinet approved Churchill's recommendations that Emir Feisal become ruler of Mesopotamia (i.e. Iraq) and his brother, Emir Abdullah, be made ruler of Transjordan. Lawrence supported these decisions and said he believed Abdullah would ensure anti-Zionist agitation from Arabs in Transjordan would be kept under control. Churchill at a meeting with Abdullah, mentioned, "an attack by brigands," (Arab tribesmen in northern Transjordan against French border police) and said he expected Abdullah to maintain law and order. Abdullah's response was, "I cannot ever prevent people from defending their own country."

The Arabs were also active and in a memorandum made several specific requests to Churchill. A National Home for the Jews should be abolished and a National government elected by the Palestinian people who existed in Palestine before the war. Jewish immigration should be stopped and Palestine should not be separated from its sister states. In a presentation to the Arab deputation, Churchill said it was the policy of the British government to support Arab nationality, but there were parts of the Arab world where this could not be done because of promises to another party, i.e. the Jews. Britain, he said, would not repudiate the Balfour Declaration. "It is manifestly right that the Jews, who are scattered all over the world, should have a national centre and a National Home and where else could that be, but in this land of Palestine, where for more than 3,000 years they have been intimately and profoundly associated."

Churchill said he wanted Feisal and Abdullah in predominant positions throughout the Arab world, "so far as this is compatible with the above exception." The British government was determined to give the Zionist movement a fair chance in Palestine. "And why should this not be so? You can see with your own eyes in many parts of this country, the work which has already been done by Jewish colonies: how sandy wastes have been reclaimed and thriving farms and orangeries planted in their stead. Palestine will become a land of milk and honey. This increase in the general prosperity of Palestine is one of the very reasons which should lead you to take a wise and tolerant view of the Zionist movement." The Arab deputation withdrew, its appeal rejected, its arguments rebutted.

A Jewish deputation then met with Churchill and expressed gratitude to the British for helping to rebuild 'the National Home of Israel.' They said the Zionist programme, "lays special stress on establishing a sincere friendship between ourselves and the Arabs. Returning after 2000 years of exile and persecution to its own homeland, we cannot suffer the suspicion that it wishes to deny to another nation, its rights." Churchill said it was the duty of the Jews "to dispel" any fears the Arabs had of being disposessed of their lands and properties and being supplanted from their rights. If I did not believe you are animated by the very highest spirit of justice and idealism and your work will confer blessings upon the whole country, I should not have the high hopes I have for your eventual success."

Weizmann's Israel

In 1939 the British government decided to limit Zionist emigration to Palestine. Churchill opposed this and in his speech in the House of Commons on 23 May 1939, he quoted the following passage from the then prime minister's speech when the government agreed to open Palestine to Zionists in 1919. "A great responsibilty will rest upon the Zionists, who before long will be proceeding with joy in their hearts, to the ancient seat of their people. Theirs will be the task to build up a new prosperity and a new civilization in old Palestine, so long neglected and mis-ruled." Churchill concluded this speech with the following sentence. "Well they have answered his call. They have fulfilled his hopes. How can he find it in his heart to strike them this mortal blow?"

A Bedouin Tent in Wadi Rum photo by G. Wilson

Wadi Rum photo by G. Wilson

It is hard to believe that one of its most outstanding attractions of Jordan was not one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Its famed name, 'Petra', which means, 'rock,' is a fitting one for a site as solid as the sandstone from which it was carved. The region was the home of Nabateans, an Arab people who formed an independent state (312 BC- 106 AD). It had a monarchic form of government and so far eleven kings have been identified. They seem to have reached their height under Aretas IV (9 BC.-40 AD). They prospered from control of the trade routes passing between Arabia and the Mediterranean Sea. Conquered by the Roman Empire, Nabatea became the Emperor Trajan's province of Arabia.

The site was sacked by the Crusaders in the 12th century AD and Petra lost its commercial dominance when the trade routes changed from camel caravans to sailing ships. In 363 AD, Petra was struck by a disastrous earthquake and the city fell into ruins. With that calamity, the Nabateans as such disappeared from recorded history. Petra sank into obscurity and lay unknown for some 700 years. The "rose-red city, half as old as time" was re-discovered in 1812 by British Navy personnel, who exclaimed when they saw it with understandable astonishment, "We do not know with what it compares; perhaps there is nothing in the world that resembles it" It is estimated to have more than 3,000 monuments and man-made features that include 600 tombs and 100 sacred banquet halls, all hand-chiseled into the towering sandstone cliffs. Scenes from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade were shot at Petra. We had seen the film, but nothing prepared us for the stunning site that suddenly opened before us.

Under our feet were the stones of a Roman road, that led down a dark, narrow gorge for about 1.6 km, This passageway between towering cliffs led into the old city. Suddenly, dramatically, the chasm opened to expose to view, the stunningly carved facade of columns, cornicies and statues on a building bearing the name Treasury. The carvings, Nabatean dieties and funerary symbols on rose-coloured rock that was suddenly warmed by the full light of the morning sun. This magnificent building, towering 40 metres high and 30 mitres wide, is a structure whose ancient carvings seemed fresh from the chisel. The most famous of Petra's many tombs bears the name, Treasury because it was thought to conceal a pharaoh's fortune. In fact, the whole of Petra was believed to be a storehouse of the Pharaoh's gold, but this most sumptuous of the monuments was believed to house the greatest golden hoard of all. Over the years, Bedouins with guns, deemed the urn at its top the likeliest repository of riches, so it became the target for treasure-hunters. Bullet holes that abound all around attest to their poor markmanship.

Touring Petra involved a good deal of hoofing, but it was worth every step. The sandy, rocky route was crowded with walkers, riders on camels, on horseback, on donkeys and in horse-drawn, colourful carts. all toting tourists intent on traversing the eight kilometres from end to end. We were accompanied all the while by local Bedouins, who made their living tailoring to the tourists with trinkets, hand-crafted jewellery, bottles of water and chunks of souvenir sandstone. Bedouin children contributed to the chaos, running about with post-cards and pieces of rock. It was a loud, lively, cclourful occasion in an exhilarating place called Petra.

Petra's Magnificent Rose Treasury photo by G. Wilson

Swirls of Rainbow-coloured Rock photo by G. Wilson

Winding its way through this part of Jordan is the road called - shades of Canada's one-time King's Highway - the King's Highway. This 5,000-year old road passes through Kerak, an ancient town whose earliest remains date from the Iron Age. This was shortly after the Exodus. The time is set by scholars to be the 13th century BC, when foreign labour was much-used in Egypt. This was part of the region was called Moab, whose capital was Kerak. Situated high on a hill overlooking the highway, a Crusader named Lord of Montreal, built a fortress in 1142. It controlled all traffic from north and south and by the imposition of tolls made Kerak rich. The Crusader castle, the best preserved of all Crusader castles in the region, is an imposing fortress and an impressive example of the Crusaders' military genius. It was banked by strongholds, each of which was a day's journey from its neighbour. At night they used beacons to signal to Jerusalem that all was safe.

Crusaders' Castle at Kerak photo by G. Wilson

Greek Corinthian Capital inserted sideways into Crusader Construction photo by G. Wilson

Mount Nebo is one of the most revered holy sites in Jordan. Moses ascended Mount Nebo from where he viewed the Promised Land. Views of the Dead Sea and the Jordean Valley are spectacular and on a clear day, the church spires of Jerusalem are visable.

View from Mount Nebo photo by G. Wilson

Jerusalem in Jesus' Time

Moses died here at the age of 120 years, still full of life and vigor. He was buried by the Lord and "no one knows the burial place to this day." God did not allow Moses, who led the people of Israel for forty years, to enter the Promised Land,, either because of his failure to provide proper recognition of God, (Numbers 20, 10-13; Deut32,48-52 ) or because of the sins of the people he led.(Deut. 1, 37-38; 3, 18-28).

Moses Memorial photo by G. Wilson

Nearby Mt.Nebo is Madaba over which many battles were fought. Sacked by the Persians in 614, its ruin was completed by an earthquake in 747. For 1000 years it lay abandoned until a group of Christians from Kerak settled there. They uncovered its spectacular mosaics and fragments from the early Christian period. Its sixth century mosaic map made Madaba famous. Designed around 570 A.D., it shows the entire region from Jordan to Palestine and Egypt and includes the Holy City of Jerusalem. It is comprised of 2.3 million pieces of coloured tiles. Many more mosaics have been excavated and are on display in the town's museum, but it is estimated that numerous others lie hidden waiting to be discovered.

Jerusalem on the Madaba Mosaic Map photo by G. Wilson

Bethany is believed to have been the place where John the Baptist baptized Our Lord. "These things took place in Bethany beyond the Jordan, where John was baptizing." (John 1, 28 and 10, 40.) No known record or tradition indicates that a village by the name of Bethany ever existed on the east coast of the Jordan River. Jesus came down to the Jordan to be baptized by John. This decision by a man now "about thirty years old," attested to Christ's acceptance of John's teaching and His teaching was essentially the same. Where our Lord was baptized is not stated expressly, "but it was probably at the upper ford." Jesus' baptism occurred in or shortly after "the fifteenth year of Tiberius," says Luke. Jesus' life spanned the years of Augustus and Tiberius Caesar, but it is doubtful if either of them ever learned of his existence. Events in Galilee and Judea were not of immediate concern to Rome's two leaders. The values He espoused were far removed from those they held. They had little regard for human life as the gladiatorial games clearly demonstrated. Roman rule certainly affected the destiny of Jesus. Jesus was content "to render unto Caesar that which is Caesar's," but he was executed by crucifixon by the powers Rome delegated to the prefect of Judea.

Bethany was also the home of Lazarus. "A certain man was sick named Lazarus of Bethany, the town of Mary and her sister, Martha ... when Jesus came, he found that he had lain in the grave four days already ... He cried with a low voice. 'Lazarus come forth.' And he that was dead came forth, bound hand and foot with grave-clothes." (John 11:1-43)

The Jordan River, the ancient river in Palestine, linked the two major inland lakes: the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea (also known as the Salt Sea.) The whole descent from the Jordan's source to the Dead Sea is 3000 feet. The river's width varies from 45 to 180 feet and ranges from 3 to 12 feet deep. The Jordan Times contained a recent article entitled, Christian Leaders Celebrate a New Baptism Centre. The Baptist World Alliance dedicated a new baptism site at the location where John the Baptist is believed to have baptised Jesus. Among the officials present was Britain's former prime minister, Tony Blair, who hopes many will come to be baptised at this site in order to create "a sense of togetherness and unity where one day, we'll all live in peace." Mr. Blair said he has always been more interested in religion than politics and according to the Toronto Star, he has established what he calls the Faith Foundation, which he hopes will bring together the world's religions.

Much of the importance of the Jordan river derives from the scriptural account of Jesus' baptism. It is also frequently mentioned as a boundary: "over Jordan," "the other side" or "beyond Jordan." . It was the eastern boundary of Canaan, the name denoting the country west of the Jordan and the Dead Sea and between those waters and the Mediterrean, that was given by God to Abraham's posterity, the children of Isreal.(Ex. 6:4; Lev. 25:38.) The Jordan River became the eastern boundary of the Promised Land. (Num. 34 12)

Bethany Beyond the Jordan photo by G. Wilson

ISRAEL

Beth Shean Ruins of Ancient Civilizations photo by G. Wilson

Because of its fertility and convenient location, Beth Shean Valley has been inhabited since the fifth millennium BC. It is mentioned several times in the Old Testament. Jewish sages said of it, "If the Garden of Eden is in the land of Israel, then its gate is Beth Shean." In the 16th-12th centuries, BC.,the city became the seat of Egyptian rule. It resisted the Israelite invasion, but fell to the Philistines, who later displayed on its walls, the bodies of Saul and his son, Jonathon, David's dear friend. Twelve Israelis journeyed through the night to take them down and give them a proper burial. (1 Samuel 31, 8-13 and 2 Samuel 21, 12) It was not until the time of Solomon's kingdom that Beth Shean was ruled for a time by Israel. Following the Roman conquest in 63 BC, it was dominated by gentiles. Beth Shean has become an Israeli national park, its ruins slowly being uncovered and restored.

Beth Shean Mammoth Column (How did they raise it!!) photo by G. Wilson

Fertile Loveliness of Beth Shean photo by G. Wilson

Dan River, largest of the four sources of the River Jordan.. photo by G. Wilson

Banias, a place of great natural beauty, was once known as Caesarea Philippi.It was enlarged by Herod Philip who added his own name to distinguish if from Caesarea, which was built by Herod the Great. Caesarea Philippi has no Old Testament history. It was visited by Christ before his transformation and it was the northern limit of his journeys. Here he asked his disciples, "Who do you say that I am?" Peter answered, "You are the Christ." Jesus charged them to tell no one about him.

Biblical figures lived and worked on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, a large heart-shaped, fresh-water lake lying 685 feet below sea level. This expanse of water is 12.5 miles long, 7.5 miles wide at its maximum and 50 metres deep. It has a surface area of 63.7 square miles. Two millenia ago, Jesus spent most of his three-year public ministry in towns and villages around the Sea of Galilee.

Jesus' Travels

One city survives today, Tiberias, built in Jesus' lifetime to honour the Roman Caesar Tiberius. "After these things, Jesus went over the Sea of Galilee which is the sea of Tiberias." (John 6: 1) As Jesus was walking beside the Sea of Galilee, he saw two brothers, Simon, called Peter and Andrew. They were casting a net into the lake for they were fishermen."Come, follow me," Jesus said, "and I will make you fishers of men." .

Sea of Galilee from Tiberias The Assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold And his cohorts were gleaming in purple and gold. And the sheen of their spears was like stars on the sea, When the blue wave rolls in nightly on deep Galilee photo by G. Wilson

We visited a museum whose prize possession was a 2000-year-old "Jesus Boat" This Galilee boat was discovered deep in the mud when waters of the Galilee dropped. A great deal of time and effort were involved salvaging what was left of this valuable historic ruin, which represents the kind of boat used by Jesus's disciples fishing in the Sea of Galilee. Who knows, if may even have been the one on which Jesus sailed.

Galilee Boat - Nof Ginnosar Kibbutz Museum photo by G. Wilson

We boarded a Pilgrim boat and set sail on the Sea of Galilee.

"That day when even was come, He saith to his disciples, 'Let us go over to the other side.' Leaving the crowd behind, they took Him along, just as He was in the boat. There were also other boats with him. And there arose a great storm of wind and the waves beat into the ship. And he was in the hinder part asleep on a pillow. And they awake him and say unto him, 'Master, carest thou not that we perish?' And he arose and rebuked the wind and said unto the sea, 'Peace, be still'. And the wind ceased and there was a great calm. And they feared exceedingly and said, one to another, 'What manner of man is this, that even the wind and the sea obey him?'" [Mark 4:35-41]

Sea of Galilee photo by G. Wilson

Since the beginning of time, the Sea of Galilee has provided fishermen with a plentiful supply of fish. The most famous fish of the many varieties found in the Galilee is now called "the St. Peter fish." It's distinguishing characteristic is that when its offspring are thought to be in danger, the mother fish hides her young inside her mouth until danger has passed. The Sea of Galilee is the most important body of fresh water in the land of Israel. It is, in fact, a lake 13 miles long, 7.5 miles wide and 50 metres deep. This historic sea must have been a sight to behold by those first seeing it, given the scarcity of water in this part of the world. The ancients, who had seen nothing but parched desert on their lengthy travels, must have been overcome with joy to see such a beautiful blue lake, made moreso if glimmering sunlight was shimmering on its surface.

Pilgrim Boat photo by G. Wilson

Capernaum was on the northern shore of the Sea of Galilee, about two miles west of the Jordan River. It is not mentioned in the Old Testament, but it is referred to as our Lord's "own city" (Matt. 9:1) for it became the centre of His Galilean work and ministry. "And leaving Nazareth, he came and dwelt in Capernaum, which is upon the sea coast in the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim." (Matt. 4:13) Here and nearby, he performed more miracles than anywhere else. "And when Jesus was entered into Capernaum, there came to him a centurion beseeching him and saying, Lord, my servant lieth at home sick of the palsy And Jesus said to him, 'I will come and heal him'" He healed the servant of the centurian who had built the synagogue.(Matt. 8:5-13)

However, when the people of Capernaum rejected him, he cursed the town. "And thou, Capernaum, which art exalted unto Heaven, shall be brought done to hell." The city was destroyed by the Arabs in the seventh century, leaving nothing but a wasteland strewn with engraved stones. Among the carvings are typical Jewish motifs, such as shofar (ram's horn) menorah (seven-branched candelabrum) and the star of David.

The first archeological discovery was a magnificent synagogue, now dated from the 4th century BC. It was constructed of limestone, enclosed by columns and adorned with fine carvings and the facade faces Jerusalem.

Ark of the Covenant's Carriage from ruins of the synagogue at Capernaum photo by G. Wilson

There is another octagonal church dating from about 450 BC.. Beneath it is a house church (about 350 BC, which is remodeled from a dwelling that the Franciscan archaeologists identify as Peter's house. (Mark 1:29) Near the great synagogue, there is a smaller one built of basalt, probably from the first century AD. The top stones indicate reconstruction; the bottom stones are part of an antcient synagogue. This is not the one where Jesus preached, but the one in which he did was likely built on the same site. Five of Jesus' apostles were from Capernaum - Peter,Andrew, James, John and Matthew. Jesus often stayed at Peter's house in Capernaum.

Synagogue of Capernaum < photo by G. Wilson

This modern church is suspended over what was Peter's house. Jesus frequently lived here and the house eventually became a church.

House of St.Peter photo by G. Wilson

"You are Peter and upon this rock will I build my Church." photo by G. Wilson

The possible site where Jesus fed 5000 people is known as the [*] Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes. It is on the northwest shore of the Sea of Galilee. While the Gospel account of the loaves and fishes specifies only that it occurred in "a remote place," Tabgha has been venerated since the 4th century AD as the place where the miracle happened."Give ye them to eat," said Jesus to his apostles. They answered, "We have no more but five loaves and two fishes." "Then he took the five loaves and the two fishes and looking up to heaven, he blessed them and gave the disciples to set before the multitude. And they did eat and were all filled." (Luke 9: 16-17) The mosaic artist was apparently unacquainted with the fish in the lake, since none has two dorsal fins.

Mosaic symbolizing the loaves and fishes photo by G. Wilson

The table rock where this wonder took place has been the altar of successive churches, the earliest built in the 4th century and replaced a century later by a larger structure. It still remains in the modern church built in 1992.

Altar of Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and the Fishes photo by G. Wilson

Between Tabgha and Capernaum, on a slight rise is the Mount of the Beatitudes where Jesus preached his Sermon on the Mount. The remains of a small Byzantine church were discovered here in 1935, but rather than build on the ancient chapel, a new church, the Church of the Beatitudes, was rebuilt on the hill-top in 1938. It has the octagonal shape to represent the eight blessings of the Beatitudes. (Matt. 5: 3-12) which are inscribed on the walls of the octagon, with the ninth inside the dome. Pope Paul VI visited this church in 1964 and read the Beatitudes to the congregation.

Church of the Beatitudes photo by G. Wilson

Dominating the city of Nazareth, Jesus' childhood home is the Basilica of the Annunciation. It is the fifth church built on the spot where the Angel Gabriel appeared to Mary to announce the birth of Jesus. Consecrated in 1969, it is the largest in the Middle East. The Grotto, the holiest area in the Basilica, was carved out of the white rock of the hill in the shape of a small, square room, where it is said the Holy Family lived after returning from Egypt. "And he [Joseph] came and dwelt in a city called Nazareth, that it might be fulfilled which was spoken by the prophets:'He shall be called a Nazarene.'" (Matt: 2: 23)

Remains of the first church were discovered during excavations in 1955. The second was built by the Byzantines; the third by the Crusaders and the fourth completed in 1877. This church, built in 1969, is crowned by the stunning and very majestic 170-foot high cupola, which allows natural light to flow into the interior. Mosaics of the Mandonna and Child contributed by Roman Catholic communities around the world adorn the walls of the vast interior.

Basilica of the Annuncialtion photo by G. Wilson

Cupola of the Basilica photo by G. Wilson

Canadian Mosaic photo by G. Wilson

American Mosaic photo by G. Wilson

Caesarea, set against the glittering Mediterranean Sea, is the city that Herod the Great dedicated to Caesar Augustus in 20 BC. Herod, a man without morals, ability without scruples and courage without honour, knew every good fortune but happiness. He beautified his capital with Greek architecture and sculpture, erecting there, "edifices of white stone and sumptuous palaces. " In addition he built a fine harbour and raised at great expense, a theatre and an amphitheatre, which is a modern perfoming venue where concerts are regularly held. Herod's hippodrome, which once held 20,000 people for chariot races, is still identifiable, but today it is a banana field.

Caesarea coastline featuring the remains of a Crusader Tower, Herod's Amphitheatre and the Roman Theatre photo by G. Wilson

Originally built by Herod in the first century BC, the aqueduct brought water for Roman bath's and fountains. It was repaired and expanded in the second century AD and conveyed water to the city from springs at the foot of Mount Carmel over 10 kilometres away.

Aqueduct photo by G. Wilson

For 600 years Caesarea was the captial of the Roman province of Judea. This was where Simon Peter preached to a gentile congregation here at the house of Cornelius, the Centurion, the first pagan baptized as a Christian. (Acts 10) It is also where Paul was imprisoned for two years prior to being taken to Rome where he was beheaded.Here in 66 A.D., the Jewish revolt against the Romans occurred and 20,000 Jews were killed by pagans in a pogrom. The Roman Emperor Vespasian was crowned here in 70 AD. Vespasian ruled for 10 years and began construction of the Colosseum between 70 and 72 AD. It was finished by his son, Titis, in 80 AD.

Caesarea was also the location of the offical residence of its governor, Pontius Pilate, who governed during the time of Jesus. Inside the gate of the amphitheatre there is a plaque with a replica (the original is in the Israel Museum, Jerusalem) of the inscription found during excavations. It bears the words, TIBERIVM AND TIVS PILATUS, references to Emperor Tiberius and Pontius Pilate. This is an important find, since it is the only archeological evidence of Pilate's existence. In Rome near the Church of St. John Lateran, the Scala Santa (Holy Stairs) are said to have come from Pontius Pilate's palace in Jerusalem. St. Helena, mother of the Emperor Constantine, was a pioneering collector of relics and the staircase was supposedly among her finds brought to Rome in c.326 AD. The 28 marble stairs carefully preserved are traditionally the steps walked up by Christ on his way to trial before Pontius Pilate.

Although the Romans denigrated Judaism and exalted Roman customs, they tolerated and respected Jewish ancestral customs. They were accepted into the synagogues and no one at any time attempted to convert them. What mattered to the Romans was paying the appropriate respect to their gods. How one lived or what one did or thought was of little.consequence. The Roman complaint with the newfangled Christian Jews was their impact on the existing social order. They proselytized the synagogue-friendly, born-pagan Gentiles and led them to the Christian baptismal fountain. True belief to the Romans was an idle question. As Pontius Pilate famously said to Jesus, "What is truth?" Although infamous for having ratified the death sentence of the Sanhedrin (Jewish Court), solely to pacify the Jewish priests, surprisinly little is known of this governor of Judea who served during the period 26-36 AD. Several legends tell of Pilate's remorseful suicide, but others say he died penitent.

The Greek Orthodox Church reveres Pilate's wife, Procla, as a saint. She is said to have become a Christian.

Pontius Pilate. photo by G. Wilson

Under the Crusaders, Caesarea was built as a citadel town of some 50 acres, less than one tenth of the Herodian city. They constructed impressive buildings that included a cathedral often using stones, marble pillars and other remains from the fallen monuments and tumbled masonry of Roman and Byzantine structures. The massive fortified walls and moat, built under the French King Louis IX, still surrounds the city. It prospered until conquered by the Mameluke sultan in 1291 and was virtually abandoned.

Crusader Wall photo by, G. Wilson

At the Mount of Olives, one has a magnificent view of Jerusalem.

Jerusalem photo by G. Wilson

Herod's Temple

For Christianity no mountain holds more far-reaching importance than Olivet or the Mount of Olives. Nowhere did Jesus spend more time during his mission in Jerusalem. When in the area, he stayed with friends at Bethany and on the way to and from the city, he passed through the Mount of Olives. Here overlooking the temple he taught his disciples, prophesied the destruction of Jerusalem and wept over its fate. [Luke 19: 37-41] From the 3rd millennium BC until the present, this 2900-foot hill has served as one of the main burial grounds for the city. The two-mile long ridge has three summits, each of which has a tower built on it.

Winston Churchill visited Jerusalem in 1921 and on Sunday, 27 March he went to the British Military Cemtery on the Mount of Olives. In the speech he made on the spot, he commemorated the victorious dead who gave their lives to liberate the land and bring about peace and amity amongst its inhabitants. He was referring to the British, Australian and New Zealanders who were buried there in 1917 following the defeat of the Ottoman Empire. Churchill concluded his speech by saying."Peace to their ashes, honour to their memory amd may we not fail to complete the work which they have begun." Some ninety years later, the wonder is that the work is ongoing.

Jerusalem Burial Grounds photo by G. Wilson

Olive trees in the [*] Garden of Gethsemane photo by G. Wilson

These are not the original olive trees among which Christ walked and pondered what was to come. The Romans ordered all those trees cut down to build the rampart for the siege of Jerusalem during the Great Revolt of the Jews in 70 AD. Olive trees produce no rings of growth, so it is difficult to determine their age. These are thought to be two thousand years old.

On the lower slope of the Mount of Olives there is a grove of ancient olive trees. These trees and their fruit have given the name to this emotionally stirring site: Gethsemane (Gat shama is 'olive press' in Aramaic.)

"Then cometh Jesus with them unto a place called Gethsemane, and saith unto the disciples, "Sit ye here, while I go and pray yonder." [Matt. 26:36] And he was withdrawn from them about a stone's cast, and kneeled down and prayed. Saying, "Father, if thou be willing, remove this cup from me: nevetheless not my will but thine be done." And there appeared an angel unto him from heaven, strengthening him. And being in an agony he prayed more earnestly: and his sweat was as it were great drops of blood falling down to the ground. [Luke 22, 41-44] King James Version

Then Jesus went wih his disciples to a place called Gethsemane and he said to them,"Sit here while I go over there and pray." He withdrew about a stone's throw beyond them, knelt down and prayed. "Father, if you are willing take this cup from me; yet not my will, but yours be done." An angel from heaven appeared to him and strengthened him. And being in an anguish, he prayed more earnestly, and his sweat was like drops of blood falling to the ground. [Luke 22: 42-44] New International Version

Agony at Gethsemane photo by G. Wilson

Betrayed by Judas, Jesus was arrested here by soldiers of the High Priest and taken away for indictment.

Gethsemane photo by G. Wilson

The little town of Bethlehem, which in Hebrew means, "house of Bread", is the location of the event that transformed the course of history.[Luke 2:7] describes how Mary brought forth her firstborn son ... and laid him in a manger, because there was no room in the inn." [Modern researchers set Jesus's birth at AD. 4. The traditional date of His birth, December 25, was chosen in AD 440 and replaced the pagan winter soltice feast.] Over the cave-like manger, traditionally Jesus' birthplace, arose the Basilica of the Nativity. As early as the 2nd century, Christian tradition identified a cave as the site of Jesus' birth. About 338 AD Emperor Constantine constructed a large church, first piercing a hole in the cave roof for the faithful to look down upon the holy place. Then he erected an octagonal altar over it. Over the sacred grotto, where Mary "brought forth her firstborn son and laid him in a manger." arose the Church of the Nativity. The construction began in 326 AD. The altar is still there. The Three Wise Men, who attended the infant Jesus, are often described as Magi, a Persian priestly cast. In 614, ravenging Persian troops spared the church from destruction because the Three Wise Men were portrayed in Persian dress. No basic changes were made by the Crusaders, except to add rich paintings and glass mosaics. Curved steps descend to the Grotto, where a silver star overlies the spot of Jesus' birth. Nearby the Chapel of the Manger honours His humble crib.The Basilica is shared by the Armenians, the Greek Orthodox and the Latins. Bethlehem is in the West Bank and subject to Palestinian authority.

Pink area is the West Bank

The West Bank is Known to Israelis by its Biblical names, Judea and Samaria.[***]

Judea and Samaria have been known by these names for unbroken centuries, and were registered as such on official documents and maps, by international institutions and in authoritative reference books right up to about 1950. When the correct names became a problem for Palestinian Arabs trying to make their newly-minted claim on the land, it somehow became "politically correct" to use "West Bank" or "occupied territories" instead of the historically accurate names Judea and Samaria.

Israel's Oldest Surviving Church, the Church of the Nativity photo by G. Wilson

The entrance to the Basilica of the Nativity has been filled in to below the straight, wide Byzantine lintel, to outline the pointed Crusader doorway. This in turn was partially blocked by the Turks, leaving the present opening small enough to allow for easy defence and to prevent horses and riders and other animals from entering the Church.

Silver star overlies the spot of Jesus' birth. photo by G. Wilson

The ruins of Qumran at the foot of cavern-pitted cliffs were of little interest to anyone, until two Bedouin shepherd boys found seven earthenware jars containing priceless biblical manuscripts - the Dead Sea Scrolls - in 1947. Successive searches near an ancient settlement of Qumran overlooking the Dead Sea, uncovered a wealth of scrolls hidden in 11 caves. Located on a barren terrace between the limestone cliffs of the Judean desert and the maritime bed along the Dead Sea, the settlement was the home of the Essenes, [Essene - bather] the most extreme of the Jewish sects. This monastic brotherhood was devoted to asceticism and lived from the 2nd century BCE to the 1st century CE. They resolved to gain heaven by poverty, chastity and prayer. The Essenes lived in homes owned by the community, had their meals in common and in silence, chose their leaders by general vote and obeyed the motto, "Mine and thine belong in me." The prosperous man who does not share his surplus is a thief.

The scrolls are believed to have been the Essenes' library, written in Hebrew, Aramaic and Greek on parchment and papyrus. Excavations at Qumran revealed a large and well-organized settlement. In the scriptorium or writing room, even bronze inkwells survived to testify to the scribes' devoted labour. The scrolls comprised a remarkable archaeological find, representing the largest and oldest body of manuscripts. They contain all the books of the Old Testament except Esther, as well as information regarding the time of Jesus of Nazareth. The text also includes descriptions of the Essenes' belief - some of which they had guarded zealoulsy from disclosure - and their way of life. There is information about how the Qumran community, the Sons of Light, awaited the coming of the Messiah. They also awaited the coming of the Sons of Darkness, any enemy of the Essenes which at this time was the Roman army. When the Roman military approached Qumran in 68 CE, the Essene scribes, before they were wiped out, placed the scrolls in clay jars and hid them in the caves in the cliffs of Qumran, where they were preserved by the dry, desert heat for two thousand years.

One of the Caves in Which Dead Sea Scrolls were Discovered photo by G. Wilson

Charges have been made that information from the Dead Sea Scrolls has been suppressed, since its publication would cause turmoil among both Jews and Christians. The nature of this hidden knowledge remains a subject of sensational speculation. Like the scrolls themselves, the nature of the Qumran settlement has aroused much debate and differing opinions. One historian challenges the veracity of Essenes' authorship of the scrolls. She claims the Essenes never existed, but were really renegade sons of Zadok, a priestly caste that was driven from the Temple of Jerusalem by Greek rulers in the 2nd Century BCE. The scolls were taken with them when they were banished and hidden away in the caves they inhabited.

Shrine of the Book in Jerusalem in which most of the Scrolls are kept. photo by G. Wilson

Herod the Great (47-4 BCE.)

High atop a mesa called Masada between 37 and 31 BC, Herod the Great built a very well-fortified mansion as a refuge for himself in the event of a revolt.

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Model of Herod the Great's Mansion on Masada

Herod the Great's Mansion Outlined on the edge of Masada. The awesome three-tiered northern palace had a Roman bath house with magnificent mosaics and its own heating system. photo by G. Wilson

Remnant of Herod the Great's Mansion on Masada photo by G. Wilson

More Remnants of Herod the Great's Mansion on Masada photo by G. Wilson

Herod's beautiful view of the sun's rays shimmering on the salty surface of the Dead Sea.

Shimmering Surface of the Dead Sea as seen from atop Masada photo by G. Wilson

Mesa Named Masada photo by G. Wilson

After Rome destroyed Jerusalem and the Second Temple in 70 AD - 1939 years ago - the Great Revolt ended, except for the surviving Zealots, who fled from Jerusalem to the fortress of Masada near the Dead Sea. Here in this ancient place, 900 Jewish zealots - men, women and children - barricaded themselves on the broad mountain mesa some 1300 feet above the Dead Sea to await the assault of the Roman army. They sustained themselves on doves, which ensured food and fertilizer for their crops. The flat mountain surface some twenty acres in size was the original site of Herod the Great's magnificent fortress/castle. He built it between 37 and 31 BC as a refuge in the event of an extended Jewish revolt.

The Zealots used this remote location for their last desperate defence against the Romans, who had just sacked Jerusalem. For three years, they defended their fortress against 15,000 men of the Tenth Legion. Finally, however, the Romans successfully assaulted the walled heights with siege towers and battering rams. They were able to do so by building a huge, earth ramp up to the top of the plateau using Jewish slaves. When the defenders realized their kindred would be killed by their defensive actions, they offered no resistance and decided instead to commit suicide rather than submit to the Romans. Each father killed his own family, then they drew lots to see who would kill those remaining, then they committed suicide. The Romans reached the top to find only corpses. Masada today is one of the Jewish people's greatest symbols. Army recruits climb to the site of the suicides and vow, "Masada will not fall again."

Names of the 10 whose lots were drawn. photo by G. Wilson

Roman encampment as seen from Masada photo by G. Wilson

Another Roman encampment as seen from Masada photo by G. Wilson

Dead Sea as seen from the Masada photo by G. Wilson

The Dead Sea, the name by which this large, salt lake is known, is 400 metres below sea level and the lowest spot on earth. Some ten times saltier than the sea, the lake has no outlet, but the heat of the valley is so great that evaporation prevents it from rising more than a few feet even during floods. Its level is falling by about one metre per year due to the sharp decrease of inflow water from the Jordan and other rivers because it is being drained away to irrigate fields and to sustain the Dead Sea chemical industry used by both Israel and Jordan. They evaporate its waters to extract its phosphates. As a headline in the Toronto Sun said recently, "They don't call it the Dead Sea for nothing."

Some say the death knell will sound for this sea in 50 years, unless its rapidly wasting water is replaced. A proposal is afoot to do just that by bringing the Red Sea to the rescue of the Dead Sea. Water from the Red Sea would be carried through a 7/8 metre-diameter tunnel. It would take 3-4 days to flow the 168 km. distance, falling 400 metres by gravity to the Dead Sea. The project would necessitate cooperation from Jordan, Israel and Palestine. Israel seems to prefer drawing water from the Mediterranean. In each case, the water would be carried to a huge desalination plant. Given that either project would likely cost an estimated $15 billion, "there's little optimism it will happen."

The Dead Sea is quite large, measuring 80 km. by 14 km.Hotels have been built along the coasts for tourists, who come in search of the curative powers of Dead Sea mud, or simply to float in its salt-saturated waters. Bathing in it's water is a curious experience. Anyone can float therein and even non-swimmers survive its waters, because they cannot drown so long as they keep their heads up. Sitting in the salty waters is easy since the water holds the body high and almost dry. The curative properties of the Dead Sea have been recognized since the time of King Herod the Great. The Dead Sea saw other greats like Mark Antony and the beautiful Egyptian Queen, Cleopatra, a creative creature, who recognized the worth of the water and made use of its salts for cosmetic purposes.

Getting into and out of the briny took a bit of doing. At the sea's edge there is no sand, only pebbles encrusted with sharp, jagged mineral salts that sever hands suddenly, the open wounds, soaked in salt, making for a stinging exit. The designation, Dead Sea, connotes bleakness and desolation, but, the lake, in fact, is lovely, its dark blue surface sparkling in the bright sunlight. However, the salt encrusted driftwood and the absence of fish in its depths do justify its name.

Restoration of the Walls of Jericho photo by G. Wilson

Jericho is called the world's oldest city. In 3000 BC, it was, so the story goes, encircled by Joshua, who destroyed its walls by a blast of trumpets. This exploit was memorialized in song with the following first verse.

Joshua fit the battle of Jericho, Jericho Jericho,
Joshua fit the battle of Jericho
And the walls came tumbling down.

Jericho's walls were rebuilt many times over many centuries. Archeologists have found no trace of Joshua's conquest, since the city was deserted before the Israelites came. Some scholars believe wind and rain destroyed signs of later occupation. Either that or Joshua's Jericho was somewhere else or that the story of the fall was invented to explain the ruins. In any case it's a great song.

"And Jesus entered and passed through Jericho. And behold, there was a man named Zacchaeus, which was the chief among the publicans ... and he sought to see Jesus who he was ... and he ran before and climbed up into a sycomore tree to see him, for he was to pass by that way." [Luke 19: 5-9] That same sycomore still grows in the area. The Crusaders revived Jericho, building a castle there, but after the Crusader kingdom was dissolved, the city declined. Today it is part of Palestine.

The Sycomore Tree of Jericho photo by G. Wilson

The Western Wall is actually a retaining wall built by Herod in 20 BC. Ever since the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 A.D., Jews have gathered in pilgrimage and in prayer around this Western Wall, which became known as the Wailing Wall. No photographs were permitted on a holy day. It is the most sacred spot in Jewish religious and national tradition. Christian men are permitted to approach it and pray. Every crack and crevice in it was filled with notes that are apparently written prayers. Prior to praying at the Wall, we men were permitted to enter the sanctuary beside the Wall. It was a beehive of activity, with male worshippers studying, singing, saying, reading and reciting their prayers, swaying all the while, The sound was so loud and the activity so widespread, one wondered how it was possible for any one to concentrate. But concentrate they did, before going out to the Wall for further prayer or study. The surface of the wall up to a man's height differs by the colour and feel of the rest of it, for it is polished by human hands touching it in prayer for centuries.

Yad Vashem, Jerusalem, is the Jewish people’s memorial to the murdered Six Million and symbolizes the ongoing confrontation with the rupture engendered by the Holocaust.It contains the world’s largest repository of information on the Holocaust, Much of it is comprised of large courts and lengthy walkways all designated with names like Walk of Remembrance and Hall of Memories. One very dark, spacious room, called the Children's Museum contained pictures of some of the half million children who died during this period. As we moved through it in almost total blackness, a voiced intoned the name each second of a child who had died. A large column outside is called the Tower of Heroes which is dedicated to the heroic men and women who fought back against hopeless odds, rather than simply succumb. A small bridge is called the Bridge of Life. A series of rooms was filled with Holocaust art, paintings and drawings done by Jewish artists who suffered and were saved. Some work was salvaged from the camps when liberated. Another square was named the Warsaw Ghetto, on two walls of which were large bronze sculptures of humans embracing each other. One large, metal sculpture, somewhat mechanical in nature, was titled From Holocaust to Rebirth. Another statue bore the name Unknown Righteous.

The museum bearing the pictures and details of the horrors of the holocaust was a hall with a triangular glass ceiling. Off this long hall were various rooms, each dedicated to some aspect of the holocaust. One, for example, showed photos and information about the Nazis who played a leading role in the holocaust. Another dealt with the Christians who failed to help. For example, Pope Paul for not speaking out when he knew what was happening. President Roosevelt for not accepting Jews into the country, notably the 900 Jews fleeing from Europe on the ship, St. Louis. Although Canada was not mentioned, Mackenzie King also denied these pathetic passengers of the St. Louis entry into Canada. "None is too many." An Australian government official is quoted as saying that Australia did not have a racial problem and he did not intend to inflict one on the country by accepting Jews.

A section of the railroad tracks on which Jews were carried to concentration camps was prominently displayed. Behind a pile of books, a film showed Goebbels ranting, while laughing students hurled banned books into the flames. Another room was dedicated to Jews who fled Germany, great men and women, such as Einstein and a famous movie director, all individuals who subsequently made significant contributions to the United States. Another huge, domed room contained hundreds and hundreds of pictures of ordinary men, women and children, who died. Around the walls of the same room were boxes that contained thousands of names of those who had no known grave. Several rooms were devoted to photographs and films of the horrors of the holocaust. Park-like areas outside contained trees bearing the names of contributors from all over the world who donated money to purchase them. Parts of the museum were quite new - 2004, 2005. It is a moving, very emotional, very impressive place, that tells its awful story with directness and great dignity.

Holocaust Museum photo by G. Wilson

Holocaust Museum photo by G. Wilson

We cry in silence. photo by G. Wilson

[*] Based on information from the article, Israel May Cede Sites to Vatican, in National Post May 5, 2009

Pope Benedict XVI's five-day visit to Israel will begin on Monday, May 11, 2009. Whether to commemorate this visit or not, Shimon Peres, the president of Israel, plans to hand over to the Vatican, sovereignty of some Christian sites in Israel. These sites include: the Garden of Gethsemane, the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth, the Coenaculum on Mount Zion in Jerusalem, Mount Tibor (west of the Sea of Galilee, site identified with the Transfiguration of Jesus; and the Church of the Multiplicatiion of the Loaves and Fishes on the Northwest shore of the Sea of Galilee. However, this plan is being blocked by members of Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu's government, who object to making these sites exempt from land expropriations by the Jewish state. Further complicating the dispute, is the fact that one of the sites under discussion, the Garden of Gehtsemane, is in Arab East Jerusalem, which Israel captured in the 1967 Middle East war and annexed, a move that is not recognized internationally. Palestinians want to set up a capital for their future state in East Jerusalem and would likely resent any Vatican overtures that appeared to confer recognition on Israeli controls. Of Mr. Peres's plan, the Interior Minister and head of the ultra-orthodox Jewish Shas party, said, "One does not give up on sovereignty." The Israeli Tourism Minsiter said he is not supportive of any kind of gift, unless it leads to millions of Chrisitian pilgrims coming to Israel. Then he said "we would have good reason to think about" such a deal. "But since we are not certain this will happen, why should we hand out gifts "

[**]The following was taken from:

The official website of the Holy Monastery of St. Catherine at Mount Sinai

The Holy Monastery of the God-trodden Mount Sinai, Saint Catherine's Monastery

The Greek Orthodox monastery of the God-trodden Mount Sinai is located at the very place where God appeared to Moses in the Burning Bush, beneath the Mount of the Decalogue. In the providence of God, it is at this site also that the holy relics of Saint Catherine are enshrined. This is the oldest continuously inhabited Christian monastery, with a history that can be traced back over seventeen centuries. The monastery predates the divisions of the Christian world, its origins extending to late antiquity.

The monastery has never been destroyed in all its history, and thus it can be said to have preserved intact the distinctive qualities of its Greek and Roman heritage. Members of other Christian confessions have honoured the monastery, coming as pilgrims to this holy place. But from its beginnings, the Christian inhabitants of Sinai belonged to the Greek speaking world, and it has remained so to this day.

The earliest description refers to the Monastery of the Holy Virgin, for the revelation of God at the Burning Bush was seen as a type of the Virgin Mary and the Incarnation. The monastery is also especially dedicated to the holy prophets Moses and Elias, who both came to this mountain, and who both spoke with Christ at the Transfiguration. More recently, it has been known as Saint Catherine’s Monastery. This remains its name today, though the monastery has not lost its earlier dedications.

More than one hundred and seventy Sinai saints are honoured by the Church. In addition to Saint Catherine, these include Saint John Climacus, abbot of Sinai and author of The Ladder of Divine Ascent. They also include the ascetic fathers Hesychios and Philotheus, two saints with the name of Anastasius, Gregory of Sinai (who transplanted the Hesychast traditions to the Slavic peoples), and Symeon Pentaglossos (who translated relics of Saint Catherine to Rouen, and thereby helped establish the veneration of Saint Catherine in the West).

The monastery can be thought of as a veritable Ark for its spiritual treasures. These include the manuscripts and early printed books preserved in the Sinai library, which is celebrated throughout the world for the antiquity and importance of its volumes. It also includes the monastery icons, which include the most important collection of pre-iconoclastic panel icons, and icons of the greatest beauty and significance dating from the time of the Comnene dynasty.

The monastery has been honoured by rulers throughout its history. These include the Empress Helena, the Emperor Justinian, Mohammed the Founder of Islam, Sultan Selim I, the Empress Catherine of Russia, and Napoleon Bonaparte. Contemporary heads of state have continued to show their interest in the monastery. The Holy Monastery of Sinai has been celebrated throughout the world for its spiritual and cultural radiance. It has been revered not only by Christians, but also by Moslems and Jews. It has recently been listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, both for its cultural and for its scenic significance.

The monks of Sinai, from earliest times until the present day, maintain a dedication both to prayer and to the support of pilgrims and visitors. They live at peace with the native Bedouin. They maintain the ancient spiritual heritage of Sinai, a heritage that extends from the giving of the Law, through the whole of the Old and New Testaments, to the multitude of saints whose memory has been enshrined at Sinai, above all, to the All-holy Theotokos, to the holy prophets Moses and Elias, and to Saint Catherine.

[***]

[Peter Beaumont Guardian.co.uk, Friday 10 July 2009 ]

"There are words with meanings corrosive as acid. Words heavy with the stench of historic crimes that damn those who use them. One such word is "Judenrein", the Nazi-era word that means "cleansed of Jews". It is a surprise, then, to learn that it is a word that has been appropriated by Binyamin Netanyahu to describe the Palestinian demand for the dismantling of the Israeli settlements in the occupied West Bank. Under pressure from Obama to freeze settlement building completely, including the construction that Israel likes to label as "natural growth" , it is being forced into ever more extreme language to defend the continued existence of the settlers in the occupied Palestinian territories in language that dishonours the memory of history and its victims. It shames Israel's prime minister."

Geography

Judea is a mountainous and arid region, much of which is considered to be a desert. It varies greatly in height, rising to an altitude of 1,020 m (3,346 ft) in the south at Mount Hebron, 19 miles (30 km) southwest of Jerusalem, and descending to as much as 400 m (1,312ft) below sea level in the east of the region. Major urban areas in the region include Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Gush Etzion (including Beitar Illit and Efrat), Jericho and Hebron.[citation needed] Geographers divide Judea into several distinct regions: the Hebron hills, the Jerusalem saddle, the Bethel hills and the Judean desert east of Jerusalem, which descends in a series of steps to the Dead Sea. The hills are distinct for their anticline structure. In ancient times the hills were forested, and the Bible records agriculture and sheep farming being practiced in the area. Animals are still grazed today, with shepherds moving them between the low ground to the hilltops (which have more rainfall) as summer approaches, while the slopes are still layered with centuries-old stone terracing. The region dried out over the centuries and much of the ancient tree cover has since disappeared.[citation needed]

History

Human settlement in Judea stretches back to the Stone Age and the region is believed by paleoanthropologists to have been one of the routes through which Homo sapiens travelled out of Africa to colonise the rest of the world around 100,000 years ago. Archaeological evidence of human settlement dates back 11,000 years in the case of the city of Jericho, believed to be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the world. In historic times, the region was inhabited by a number of peoples, most famously the Israelites. Judea is central to much of the narrative of the Torah, with the Patriarchs Abraham, Isaac and Jacob said to have been buried at Hebron in the Tomb of the Patriarchs. Judea was ruled by the Kingdom of Judah, a client kingdom of Persia[1], and later the Seleucid dynasty of Greece who were eventually expelled from the region by Judas Maccabeus. The Maccabean family established the Hasmonean dynasty of Kings who ruled in Judea for over a century. [2]

Roman conquest

Judea lost its independence to the Romans in the 1st century BCE, by becoming first a tributary kingdom, then a province, of the Roman Empire. The Romans had allied themselves to the Maccabees and interfered again in 63 BCE, following the end of the Third Mithridatic War, when general Gnaeus Pompeius Magnus stayed behind to make the area secure for Rome. Queen Alexandra Salome had recently died, and a civil war broke out between her sons, Hyrcanus II and Aristobulus II. Pompeius restored Hyrcanus but political rule passed to the Herodian family, first as procuratores and later as client kings. In 6 CE, Judea came under direct Roman rule as the province of Iudaea. Eventually, the Jews rose against Roman rule in 66 CE in a revolt that was unsuccessful. Jerusalem was destroyed in 70 CE and much of the population was killed or enslaved. [3]

Bar Kokhba revolt

The Jews rebelled again 70 years later under the leadership of Bar Kokhba and established the last Kingdom of Israel, which lasted three years, before the Romans managed to conquer the province for good, at a high cost in terms of manpower and expense. After the defeat of Bar Kokhba (132-135 CE) the Roman Emperor Hadrian was determined to wipe out the identity of Israel-Judah-Judea and reverted to using the name Palastina from the writings of Herodotus who reported the name of the region as Palestine and the people there referred to themselves as the Palestine-Syrians. Until that time the area had been called "province of Judea" by the Romans. At the same time, he changed the name of the city of Jerusalem to Aelia Capitolina. The Romans killed many Jews and sold many more into slavery; a great many Jews departed into the Jewish diaspora, but there was never a complete Jewish abandonment of the area. [4]

[****]Lawrence sent Winston Churchill a copy of his new book with this inscription.
" Winston Churchill who made a happy ending to this show. And eleven years after we set our hands to making an honest settlement, all our workk still stands: the countries have gone forward, our interests have been saves, and nobody killed, either on one side or the other. To have planned for eleven years is statemanship. I ought to have given you two copies of this work."

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