THE TRAVELLING HISTORIAN -- CRUISING THE CARIBBEAN

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GOLD, GOD, GLORY

COLUMBUS PLANS ON CRUISING THE CARIBBEAN

The Caribbean

Caribbean Islands

Columbus Monument, Landfall Park, Long Bay

Columbus first European to land in South Ameirca in 1498.
An 1886 etching after a Theodor de Bry 16th century painting.

After 33 days at sea, on 12 October 1492, Columbus landed at beautiful Fernandez Bay (Long Bay). This commemorates the landfall of Christopher Columbus on San Salvador in 1492.

Today, the shores washed by waters of the Caribbean welcome millions of eager tourists to the beautiful islands scattered helter-skelter about that silvery sea. Long before they were accidentally discovered, it is believed these sublime places existed in the minds of men as the "Islands of the Blest."

We sought out the "Blest" places by heading in a southwesterly direction. The ports-of-call at which we stopped are indicated below in no particular order.

Where better to begin than at the most easterly of all the islands.

BARBADOS

Flag of Barbados
The blue on the left is for the sky.
The gold is for the sand.
The blue on the right is for the sea.
The broken trident in the middle with only the top showing, represents the break with England at independence.

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Welcome to Barbados
photo by
G. Wilson

Saw Sunset Glow.
photo by
G. Wilson

Lovely to Look At
photo by
B. Wilson

The first indigenous people to arrive on this island were Amerindians, who sailed from Venezuela. Little but a few bones remains of their presence. The Arawaks were the island's next occupants, but in 1200 CE they were conquered by the Caribs. These natives added two, new words to the white man's language: Caribbean and Buccaneer. The Caribs sliced and smoked their meat over an open fire with grills called boucans. Freebooters liked this kind of cooking and copied it, whence came the name, 'buccaneer'.

Portuguese sailors on their way to Brazil were the first Europeans to land on this easterly island. They named it, Los Barbados, (bearded ones), for they thought its fig trees had a beard-like appearance.

Bearded Ones
photo by
B. Wilson

In 1492, you know who arrived on the blue, and the island became part of Spain's empire. The Spanish imposed slavery on the Caribs and its tragic trials plus the contagious European diseases of small pox and tuberculosis, quickly decimated the Carib population. However the Spanish found little they favoured on the island and as with other islands listed on their nautical charts, they dismissed Barbados as one more of those, Islas Inutiles (Useless Isles) Their departure for larger, more lucrative landscapes, left Barbados open for colonizers from elsewhere in Europe.

"Anchors away," they said and in 1625 and Mother England became the guardian of the island's gates. On 14 May of that year, the lovely land was claimed in the name of King James I.

Monument marking the landing site of the first British settlers in 1627.

In the 17th century, 26 forts guarded much of the coastline with cannons, many of which have yielded to the ravages of time. Fortunately, a few have been restored.

Fort Charles
Looking South from Needham's Point
photo by
G.Wilson

During the 1630s, sugar cane was introduced and profits from it were huge. In 1805, William Pitt, Britain's Prime Minister, estimated that of all the wealth entering England, four-fifths of it came from the West Indies' cane and cotton fields. These crops required lots of labour which was provided by indentured servants brought out from England. Some who chose to emigrate overseas were forced to sign agreements to serve planters for a period of 5 or 7 years.

When manpower proved insufficient to satisfy the demand, plantation owners sought out other sources of supply. Homeless men were simply kidnapped in London, their number also including vagrant children wandering the streets of the great city, who were swept up and shipped off to lives of hard labour. Convicted criminals provided more muscle and they were 'transported' to Barbados to serve their long, often never-ending sentences. When even more men were needed, Africans - men, women, children - were captured by slavers or purchased for a pittance from Arabs along the coast of Africa, loaded into slave ships and transported to the islands where they were sold to planters for huge profits.

In 1985 a Barbadian sculptor erected a strikingly impressive statue of a slave, exaltant in his freedom finally from the chains that for so long had bound him and his people. Referred to as the Bussa Statue, it evokes liberty, but also defiance and scorn for the savagery called slavery. The Bussa Statue commemorates the great courage of a man named Bussa, who led the first rebellion against slavery on Barbados in 1816. This undoubtedly motivated movement by the British government finally to act and put an end to slavery with the Slavery Abolition Act in 1833, which abolished that evil system in most of the British Empire.

"BUSSA"
Emancipation Statue
photo by
G.Wilson

It was somewhat of a surprise to come upon the statue of Lord Nelson in Bridgetown. While we knew Barbados' connection with the Sceptred Isle was long and close, we wondered what specific connection the island had with the hero named Horatio, that led to the erection of this fine statue of Nelson in a square named Trafalgar in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean?

Lord Nelson
photo by
G. Wilson

As a junior officer in the British navy, Nelson had served in the Caribbean for a period in the late eighteenth century. By 1805 he had become a highly respected admiral and early in that year, he received the signal, "Enemy at sea." This spelled trouble. Admiral Pierre de Villeneuve and his French fleet had slipped out of Toulon and had begun its menacing meanderings about the ocean, intent on attacking anything English, even, it was feared, England itself and its Caribbean colonies.

The French fleet on the open sea caused great concern and when Nelson learned it was heading for the Caribbean, he "flew to the West Indies without orders." Nelson acted so precipitously, because he feared for his country's very valuable sugar islands. In a record three weeks' time, his ten of the line and three frigates had dropped anchor in Barbados. Meanwhile the French fleet had taken on supplies at Martinique and headed for the open sea.

Nelson in his ship Victory, the magnificently restored vessal in Portsmouth Historic Dockyard that still flies the white ensign as a fully commissioned ship of the Royal Navy, scoured round about the islands, intent on finding and finishing off a force twice his strength. When told Nelson was on his tail, Villeneuve was shocked and apprehensive. He quickly decided that discretion was the better part of valor and departed for more distant places.

HMS Victory The largest ship of the Royal Navy with a crew of 850 and 104 guns, under full sail, her canvas covered four acres.

Admiral Nelson spent 9 days in the Caribbean, frantically searching for the French fleet. While their paths did not cross then, Nelson's presence sufficed to prevent the French from seizing the valuable sugar islands and capturing a convoy of merchantmen bound for England. Following his fruitless search, Nelson decided that Villeneuve had sailed for the Mediterranean. With eleven of the line, Nelson set course for Gibraltar. Later the two crossed swords in the heaving ocean at a place called Trafalgar.

Cabo de Trafalgar

The Battle of Trafalgar was fought on the 21st of October 1805 off Cape Trafalgar on the Spanish coast, between the combined fleets of Spain and France and the Royal Navy. It was the last great sea action of the period and its significance to the outcome of the war in Europe is still debated by historians.

End of the Day by Harold Wyllie

On 21 October, 1805 after all had done their duty as England expected by defeating the French and Spanish fleets, Nelson's ship, the Victory, a shattered hulk, prepared to limp home. Nelson's flag flew at half-mast; his cabin windows were darkened. Nelson was dead. The Times intoned, "The victory was dearly purchased." It made the man immortal.

Royal Navy Museum's Official Portrait of Nelson

The only known genuine Nelson sword (middle); French Admiral Villeneuve's (right) and Spanish Rear Admiral Cisnoros's (left)

Barbados Parliament Buildings as seen through Independence Arch
photo by
G. Wilson

Called "Little England" because of its English law and traditions, Barbados' first Parliament was held in 1639, making it the third oldest in the Commonwealth after the British House of Commons and Bermuda's House of Assembly. A series of stainted-glass windows depicts British monarchs from James I to 'Victoria.

In 1861 Barbados won self-rule from England and the island became an independent country in 1966.

Entrance to Home of Claudette Colbert in Speightstown

photo by
G. Wilson

Claudette Colbert
Famous Movie Star of the 30s, 40s and 50s.

Harrison's Cave
photo by
G. Wilson

A must see for many is the Harrison Cave, where tourists are transported on an electric train deep into a limestone cavern, that features a fund of nature's underground sights including stalactites, stalagmites, beautiful streams and a thundering, 40-foot waterfall.

Where the rum come from.
photo by
G. Wilson.

A tour of a rum refinery is a must, where one can see how this spirited drink is made, tested and stored. As an added enticement, it is possible to sample the success of the distiller while relaxing in a cool breeze beneath waving palms and later enjoying a lavish lunch and lively entertainment provided by the inimitable steel-band so endemic to Barbados.

Swimming's great too
photo by
B. Wilson

Dominating a wall in the seaport terminal in Barbados is a large advertisement inviting visitors to see what George Washington called "perfectly ravishing."

Come See Where Washington Slept
photo by
G. Wilson

The "Ravishing" Place

Nineteen-year-old George Washington slept here for two months in 1751. This is the only time George ever ventured outside the United States. The house in which he stayed, known as the Bush Hill House that overlooks Carisle Bay, was opened as a tourist attraction in 2006. The house has period furnishings, but its 1719 windmill and bath house are original. George, accompanied his half-brother, Lawrence, to Barbados in an effort to find a cure for Lawrence, who had tuberculosis. The fresh air failed to work, however, and Lawrence died in 1752 soon after the brothers returned. George inherited Lawrence's home, Mount Vernon and all his slaves and became a wealthy Washingtonian.

To many people, the Caribbean Sea is synonymous with pirates, fierce fellows who roamed the bounding main, bent on finding, fighting and filching gold and silver from Spanish and Portugues ships laden with ill-gotten gains they had pillaged from the Aztecs and Incas.

Peg-Leg Pete
photo by
G. Wilson

Not all buccaneers were aboard ships. One landlubbing freebooter used another technique to acquire his loot. Legend has it that one Sam Lord, a prominent, upstanding Barbadian, was a pirate who preferred darkness and the safety of land to lure ships to their peril as they passed by his place in the night. Sam and his slaves lured them with lanterns they had hung to trees and the sides of his buildings. The captains mistook these for the bright lights of Bridgetown that offered safe harbour in hazardous seas. In their hast to land, they learned too late that they had wrecked their ships on the shore ringed with reefs. Sam then sent his slaves to gather the goods floating about in the water. It worked amazingly well and he became a Lord with lots of money.

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Sam Lord's Regency Style Castle
photo by
G. Wilson

Time To Leave Lovely Barbados
photo by
Bye Bill

ST. KITTS AND NEVIS

St. Kitts
photo by
G. Wilson

Welcome to St.Kitts
photo by
G. Wilson

For Horatio Nelson buffs, considerably more information relating to the great admiral can be found on the small island of Nevis, neighbour to St. Kitts. It is a short ferry ride from Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts, where most cruise ships dock. A display in Nelson Museum called "Nevis in the time of Nelson," is filled with Nelson memorabilia that includes letters, paintings, documents and furniture from his flagship Victory. During the time Nelson served in the Caribbean area, he visited this island frequently, for he had met there the widow, Mrs. Frances Nisbet, soon to become Mrs. Horatio Nelson. Following their marriage on the island, Nelson returned to England 1787 with Frances [**] and her son, Josiah.

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Santo Domingo,
founded by
Christopher Columbus
photo by
G. Wilson

Santo Domingo, known as "Gateway to the Caribbean," is the capital of the Dominican Republic and the oldest city in the New World. It was founded in 1496, at the earliest stage of Spanish colonization, so there one finds: the "first European" of the Dominican Republic; the first street, the first cathedral and the first hospital.

Men like Hernan Cortes and Ponce de Leon plotted their conquests and set sail from the port of Santo Domingo in search of adventure, loot and new lands. The expeditions that led to Hernando Cortes' conquest of Mexico and Balboa's sighting of the Pacific Ocean all started from Santo Domingo.

On New Year's Day, 1586, Sir Francis Drake reached Santo Domingo, captured and plundered the city and extorted a ransom of 25,000 ducats. This was only the beginning of the havoc he and his fleet of seven large ships and 22 smaller ones wreaked on Spanish settlements around the Caribbean.

The Alcázar de Colón
photo by
G. Wilson

This building is the America's first castle and one of the city's most important colonial buildings. It was once the residence of Viceroy of the Indies Don Diego Colón, a son of Christopher Columbus.

Santo Domingo Policewoman wielding a big stick to harry hustlers who dared to attempt to touch the tourists for handouts. And there was no doubt about the fact that she would have used it. Even tourists were intimidated!
photo by
G. Wilson

PUERTO RICO

Sailing into San Juan harbour, the cruise ship passed by the impressive and, it seems, impregnable fortress El Morro, which dominates the headland (Spanish: Morro) of Old San Juan, The towering fort stands 140 feet above sea level and provides a wonderful view of the bay of San Juan and the Atlantic. The massive citadel was built by the Spanish to prevent their European enemies from gaining access to the port of San Juan. Named for King Phillip II of Spain, construction of El Morro began in 1540 and was completed in 1589.

El Morro Fortress
photo by
G. Wilson

It was unsuccessfully attacked by Drake. in 1595. Spanish gunners from El Morro Castle shot a cannonball through the cabin of Drake's flagship, but he survived. He died of dysentery in 1596 at age 56 while anchored off the coast of Portobelo, Panama, where some Spanish treasure ships had sought shelter. At his request he was buried dressed in full armour at sea in a lead coffin near Portobelo. Today El Morro hosts some two million tourists annually. It was stirring to stand atop that battlement and imagine the melee that occurred that day when "Elizabeth's pirate" attempted to add this great fortress to the fortunes he had already taken from Spain.

Sir Francis Drake by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger

View of the Atlantic from the Ramparts of Fort El Morro

Blue Bricks on Streets of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
photo by
G. Wilson

The streets of Old San Juan are paved with adonquines, small blue-gray glazed bricks cast from the residue of iron furnaces in Spain and brought to the Americas as ballast in the Spanish galleons. Nothing so pedestrian was used to stabilize the ships on the way home. Then ballast for the boats was gold and silver, tons of the take stolen from the Amerindians.

Walls Once Enclosed the old city of San Juan
photo by
G. Wilson

Construction of the La Muralla (the City Wall) in Old San Juan began in 1539 and was completed in 1782. It was built from sandstone blocks and measures 20 feet/6 metres in thickness, which certainly impresses anyone passing through the gate. La Muralla originally surrounded the entire colonial city and effectively guarded San Juan against enemy attack. Founded in 1509, San Juan became a walled city, protected by multiple forts because it guarded an important entrance into the Spanish Main. Considered the Gibraltar of the West Indies, it withstood multiple attacks by the British and Dutch.. The fort received some naval bombardment from US naval ships during the Spanish American War (1898).

GRAND CAYMAN

Georgetown, Grand Cayman
photo by
G. Wilson

Grand Cayman turtles of all shapes and sizes are a popular tourist attraction at the farm on which they are raised. Thousands of them fill tanks of all dimensions. The park includes a breeding pond and a touch-tank for up-close-and-personal creature encounters. They are free to fondle to the great amusement of young and old. It is amazing how strong these slow-moving reptiles are, the larger ones wriggling violently to free themselves from hands that must hold them for dear life.

This 23-acre/9-hectare farm is one of the greatest success stories of an endangered species being raised in captivity. Since opening in 1980, the Turtle Farm has returned 30,000 turtles to the wild. More than 16,000 sea turtles, ranging in size from 6 ounces to 600 pounds each, call the farm home.

Turtle Town in Georgetown, Grand Cayman
photo by
G. Wilson

DOMINICA

Roseau, Capital of Dominica
photo by
G. Wilson

Beyond the populated fringe of Dominica, an island wedged between Martinique and Guadalupe, is a primal rain forest, that fills much of its craggy interior. Few people venture into this rugged part of the island, whose inhospitable terrain has resulted in its nickname, "Nature Island." It is one of the youngest islands in the volcanic Caribbean and is still being formed by volcanic activity. It is said that to know the earth in its pristine, primitive state is to know the wilderness of Dominica. Only the Caribbean's original inhabitants, the Carib Indians, have seen fit to make the northeastern part of the island their home. The island's beaches are mostly black sand because of its volcanic origin.

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Black Sand Beaches

MARTINIQUE

Martinique, the French Caribbean island, is an overseas region of France. It is called, not without ample justification, the Isle of Flowers and the Rum Capital of the World. By whatever name it is known, it is certainement an alluring and enchanting place. No need to travel to France, when French products from Chanel fashions to Limoges porcelain are readily available at Fort Martinique, whose capital is nicknamed, "Little Paris of the West Indies."

This lovely isle was the home a young girl who was told by a local fortune teller, "You will be greater than a queen." She knew whereof she prophesized, for the young lady became Empress Josephine, the wife of Napoleon Boneparte, who said of her, "I win the battles, Josephine wins me the hearts." Napoleon declared, "Virtue, for me, consisted of what you made it." The emperor had great dreams for their future and his wedding present to Josephine was a gold medallion inscribed with the words, "To Destiny." Fame and fortune awaited them. A statue of the lovely Josephine graces the plaza in front of the library in Fort Martinique. [***]

Statue of Josephine in Martinique
photo by
G. Wilson

C'est Magnifique Martinique
photo by
G. Wilson

ST. LUCIA

St. Lucia is a lush, colourful mountainous Caribbean island, whose twin landmarks are Petit Piton and Gros Piton, both rising to about 2500 feet. This second largest of the Windward group is just over 20 miles long. Occupied in turns by France and Britain, the island was ceded by France to Britain as part of the post-Napoleonic peace treaty. It gained its independence in 1967. It has the distinction of having produced two Nobel Prize winners, the highest per capita anywhere. Castries is its capital, Visit Fort Rodney Provincial National Park, named for the British Admiral Rodney who defeated the French in 1782.

Lush Lucia
Marigot Bay where some of the film, Dr. Doolittle, was shot
photo by
G. Wilson

St.Lucia
photo by
G. Wilson

The beaches along the west coast are public and the sea is pacific. The east coast of the island has heavy surf beating against the cliffs and visitors are well advised to avoid swimming here. While difficult to access, the wild Atlantic waves crashing upon the shore create views that are spectacular.

Rough Seas
No Swimming Please

Fort Rodney
Pigeon Island National Park, St. Lucia
photo by
G. Wilson

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"I want to be alone."
Island off the coast of Castries
Capital of St. Lucia
photo by
G. Wilson

The capital, Castries, wraps itself around a sheltered bay into which our ship anchored. Founded by the French in 1650, it was used a "Carenage" (meaning safe anchorage), Named after the Marquis de Castries, commander of a French expeditionary force, it was abandoned after the devastating hurricane of 1780. From 1803 to 1844 the British made the town a major naval port and built fortifications on Morne Fortune, the mountain overlooking the important harbour. By the end of the century, Castries had become a major coaling station, because it was the only port in the Caribbean capable of holding the whole British navy.

ISLA DE MARGARITA

Isla Margarita (Margarita Island) Venezuela is a mountainous tropical Caribbean island paradise located off the north shore of Venezuela. Margarita is blessed with an average of over 320 days a year of sun with temperatures that are neither too hot or too cold. . It has, beautiful tropical beaches lined with palm trees like Playa el Agua or Playa Parguito.

Mangrove Lagoon Boat Ride - Margarita
photo by
G. Wilson

Margarita's Brave Senora and Boa
photo by
B. Wilson

ST.THOMAS

St. Thomas, settled first by South American natives, was occupied by the Taino Indians when Christopher Columbus reached what would become the US and British Virgin Islands in 1493. The Spanish didn't stay long on St. Thomas. Leaving it sparsely defended allowed a mix of European settlers to stake claim there throughout the seventeenth century. St. Thomas along with its neighbors, St. John and St. Croix, was bought by the Danish government in 1733 from the Danish West India Company. Because of the island's infertility, economic activity resulted with products from the rest of the Caribbean being traded. Because of its beautiful and easily accessible harbour of Charlotte Amalie, the island flourished. St. Thomas remained under Danish rule until 1917, when it was purchased by the United States as a precaution, for the American government feared German infiltration in the Caribbean during World War I. The names of St. John, St. Croix and St. Thomas were kept, but they became known as the US Virgin Islands.

Charlotte Amalie Harbour, St. Thomas
photo by
G. Wilson

Escorted out of St. Thomas in no uncertain terms.
photo by
G. Wilson

A B C ISLANDS

The ABC islands, Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao, are located north of Venezuela in the western part of the Caribbean called the Lesser Antilles. From west to east they are in order: Aruba, Curaçao, Bonaire. All three islands are part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Aruba is an autonomous, self-governing member state of the Kingdom of the Netherlands and Bonaire and Curaçao are in the Netherlands Antilles. Safely outside of the Caribbean hurricane belt, Bonaire is 30 miles (48 km) from Curacao; 50 miles (80 km) north of Venezuela and 86 miles (129 km) east of Aruba,.Its total population is just over 18,000 people and its capital, Kralendijk, 3,000. This affords a small-town atmosphere. Self-rule was granted by Queen Juliana of the Netherlands in 1954, although the Antilles remains a Dutch protectorate.

ARUBA

Aruba Waterfront
photo by
G. Wilson

Aruba - desert in paradise
photo by
G. Wilson

BONAIRE

Kralendijk, Bonaire
photo by
G. Wilson

Port Orange, Kralendijk, Bonaire
photo by
G. Wilson

CURACAO

Curacao is the largest and most varied of the Netherlands Antilles. The people are multilinqual speaking Dutch, English, Spanish and Papiamento, a multi-ethnic language developed in the 17th and 18th century by African slaves and westerners. While Dutch is the official language, Papiamento is most frequently spoken.

Williamstad,Curacao
photo by
G. Wilson

Curacao - Queen Juliana Bridge
photo by
G. Wilson

And finally a popular destination for all who cruise the bounding main. On this exclusive island getaway in the Caribbean, one can enjoy the sun, the sand and a bounteous barbeque besides, all on a beautiful, 2500-acre Bahamian island called Half Moon Cay, Holland America's own private paradise.

Half Moon Cay
photo by
G. Wilson

Activities are not limited to lying in the sun. A Horseback Ride 'n Swim excursion allows guests to explore the island's natural beauty on trails that are accessible only by horseback. The trail leads guests to a deserted beach where one can take an unforgettable swim on horseback. A Stingray Adventure Program offers visitors the opportunity to swim or snorkel with stingrays as well as interact with and feed them. Or one can sail around the island's picturesque shoreline, navigating natural reef locations. If it's loft you're looking for, feel the wind in your face and the scenery in your sights as you float free as a bird while para-sailing off shore.

Half Moon Cay
photo by
G. Wilson

Half Moon Cay is a great port-of-call for cruisers in the Caribbean.

[*]

In 1813 a fine bronze statue sculpted by Sir Richard Westamacoot, "the first castor of bronze in the kingdom," was erected in Trafalgar Square in downtown Bridgetown. The tribute was paid for by planters, grateful to Nelson for saving their plantations from being plundered by the French. He also agreed with their stand that slavery was crtitical to their economic well being and should not be ended. Barbados' statue was erected nearly 30 years before the British built their column surmounted by Admiral Horatio Nelson in Trafalgar Square in London.

[**]In his will, Nelson left nothing to Frances, who became the Dowager Viscountess Nelson and Duchess of Bronte. The nation granted her £2,000 per year for life. She outlasted her husband by twenty-five years, dying in 1831. She lived with her son, Josiah Nisbet (Nelson's stepson) and his family, who likewise received nothing from Nelson's estate. Horatio bequeathed everything to his brother's and sisters' families. A codicil to Nelson's will, written just before Trafalgar, requested that the nation take care of Emma Hamilton, the love of his life and mother of his daughter, Horatia. There was ti be, however, for Nelson's "gift to the nation," no monetary mention.

[***] Someone in Martinique knocked Josephine's head off. I am not sure whether it has been repaired or whether the picture above preceded her decapitation.

[***]An Update: As of January 2010, it was still missing. We learned from a tour guide, that while some authorities and visitors from France believe the head should be replaced, many local Martiniquans(?) have indicated, that if it is replaced, it will be knocked off again. They resent the fact that she, a local, supported Napoleon's stand on continuing slavery to accommodate the needs of the plantation owners. Memories of the horrid time, are never forgotten, nor apparently, forgiven.

[****] Despite having money from her husband's and Nelson's estates, Emma fell into debt, sold her home, Merton, and spent time in a debtor's prison. She left England to live in France in 1814 where she died in Calais on 15 January 1815, accompanied only by Horatia. Horatia returned to England and lived with her paternal relations. At 21 she married Philip Ward, the local curate at Burnham Market on 19 February 1822. They had 10 children, the eldest son being named Horatio Nelson. Horatia died at 80 on 6 March 1881, continuing to the very end denying she was the daughter of Emma Hamilton.

Headless in Martinique

[****]The Toronto Star May 24, 2009

Lord Nelson shared the considerable financial costs of pleasing his mistress with her husband when the three of them lived together, newly uncovered documents show. Sir William Hamilton moved with his younger wife, Emma, Lady Hamilton, into the celebrated admiral's house in Merto, south Lond in 1801. Her two lovers pooled their resources to cover the huge summs necessary to meet her expensive tastes.

A set of 16 household accounts covering the period of theunusual domestic arangement, which isup for auction next month, show that Lord Nelson and Sir William split many bills evenly.

They paid out the Canadian equivalent of up to about $280 - around $19,800 in today's money - to local tradesmen for treats such as fresh meat, fish and oysters, to whicj Lady Hamilton was particularly partial.

The accounts also detail payments to household staff, including wages of about $4 to maid Phillis Thorpe for more than three months work. "That's only about one-third of the amount they forked out for fish in a single week," said Dr. Thomas Venning, a manuscript expert at Christie's, which is selling the docoumentd.

"These accounts provide a valuable insight into life in England just before Trafalgar."

Lord Nelson invited the couple into his homw after falling in love with Lady Hamilton during the Napoleonic Wars in Nples, where her husband was the British envoy.

The naval lieutenant's infatuation proved expensive; one document suggests he paid his wife the equivalent of $32,000 a year after abandoning her.

Lady Hamilton stayed with Lord Nelson following the death ofher husband in 1803, but ended her life in poverty after he was killed at the Battle of Trafalga two years later.

The weekly accounts, signte by both Lord Nelson and Sir William's steward, Francis White, could fetch up to $18,000 at Christie's in London on June 3. (Telegraph Media Group)

[In fact, the price realized was $14,751.]

Price Realized (Set Currency) £7,500 -($12,480) Price includes buyer's premium
Estimate£6,000 - £9,000
($9,834 - $14,751)

Sale 7725
valuable printed books and manuscripts, including fine platebooks from an historic continental library
3 June 2009
London, King Street

Lot Description
NELSON, Horatio, Viscount (1758-1805). A set of sixteen 'Weekly account[s] of the R[igh]t Hon[oura]ble Sir W[illia]m Hamilton, and the R[igh]t Hon[oura]ble Lord Visc[oun]t Nelson', 21 June 1802 - 4 April 1803 (with gaps), two signed by Nelson, 'Paid by Lord Nelson Feb[rua]ry 9 [March 12th] 1803 Nelson & Bronte', two others with financial calculations in Nelson's hand, all accounts signed by Francis White (presumably Hamilton's steward), together 16 pages, folio, the majority on bifolia, dockets.

An engaging series of domestic accounts for Nelson's famous ménage à trois with Sir William and Emma Hamilton in Merton: the weekly disbursements, whose totals vary from £27-1-7½ in late June 1802 to £156-4-4 in March 1803, are for tradesmen and foodstuffs, ranging from the butcher, the greengrocer and the fishmonger (on one occasion £6-8-6 for oysters) to washing and in some cases household wages. On the accounts which Nelson has signed he pays half of the household expenses, the balance being paid by Francis White for Sir William Hamilton; on the remaining accounts the whole sum is paid by Francis White.

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